Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 33

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Back to Humans

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey

Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1.036 km

   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent location”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).

Bixby Bridge (early morning), wikipedia

   With the bridge (built from Aug 24, 1931 to Oct. 15, 1932) started the tourism in Big Sur from the north; for me the construction was, coming from the south, the end of this part of my trip. Especially living in hectic and bustling Taiwan I often think about these few days in quiet nature only disturbed occasionally by noisy people. I wish often that I had a place like this to retire from my busy daily life…

   With some sad thoughts I continued on Highway one and arrived at 11:00 at the city limits of Carmel-by-the-Sea. I turned right into an industrial area and found a branch of the Bank of America. My dollars were running low so I tried to cash in some of my American Express traveler's cheques. Except that had to explain the bank employee that in Europe we have only a European passport and that I had to show her the country name Germany in the passport it went surprisingly smooth. At that time (2007!) there was no credit card from which I could withdraw US dollars in cash so I prepared travellers cheques in advance.

   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).

    Back on Highway 1 rode on a beltway crossing the steepest mountain on my whole trip which nearly overcame me. On the top I got off my bike to cross the very busy street and cycled into town. Carmel-by-the-Sea, or short Carmel, was founded in 1902.

   In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake the village was inundated with musicians, writers, painters and other artists turning to the establishing artist colony after the bay city was destroyed. The new residents were offered home lots – ten dollars down, little or no interest, and whatever they could pay on a monthly basis.

   Already in 1910 it was reported that 60% off all houses were inhabited with citizens who dedicated “their life to work and aesthetic art”. Maybe because of this background the actor Clint Eastwood was mayor from 1986-1988 in this town with a population of 4.000 citizens.

   In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake the village was inundated with musicians, writers, painters and other artists turning to the establishing artist colony after the Bay City was destroyed. The new residents were offered home lots – ten dollars down, little or no interest, and whatever they could pay on a monthly basis (wikipedia). Already In 1910 it was reported that 60% off all houses were inhabited with citizens who dedicated “their life to work and aesthetic art”. 

   Maybe because of this background the actor Clint Eastwood was mayor from 1986-1988 in this small town with a population of only 4.000 citizens.

   I cycled to a very clean living area and directly to the shopping center of the town. Here there are many famous brand offered in a relative small town and, around noon, all parking lots were occupied.

   Through a forested district I came finally to the beach of Carmel. In contrast to other beaches is was rather empty, even in the water was no one. I could only discover a young beach boy sitting in his opened door VW Bus Type 2, or Volkswagen Bulli, with loud Heavy Metal music. He did not use his surfboard, it leaned on his vehicle.

Carmel - San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission

   
   I continued to ride and discovered accidently the Carmel - San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission. Am June 03, 1770 Father Junipero dedicated a holy cross which should actually establish a 2nd Missionary Mission San Carlos Borromeo in Monterey. But the Spanish soldiers mistreated the Indians who saw the land of the mission as their own the Father moved on August 24, 1771 to Carmel. He worked here with his Indian friends until his death on August 28, 1784.

   Some readers might note that today I rode totally over the 1.000 km on American soil - a nice record for me. My purpose was not to make a bike race but to find the direction, time for photos, time for knowing people, time for relaxation. Sometimes the road is hard but more often it is easy and joyful. May the Lord continue to protect me and my equipment, may He let me have an interesting and great time...Thank you!  

(to be continued) 

  

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 32

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Run for Life

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey

Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1036 km

   After crawling out of my tent some drops were still falling thru the early morning. It might sound strange but I tried to avoid the Vietnam veteran. I packed my small tent and sleeping bag into my duffel bag and all other things in their proper bags. During all the time I did not even once look at this guy.

   I am actually a socially active and open kind of person until today, while I am typing it. But I hate drugs and alcohol because as a child I was confronted with an alcoholic and out of control father for many, many years. 

   Therefore I packed my things as fast as I could and only wanted to leave this beautiful State Park as soon as possible. I unlocked my bike, fixed the luggage on it and nearly jumped on it. Just in this moment I passed the veteran on my bike as he tried to pick himself up from the drugs and sleeping under the open sky. He was sitting there with confused eyes and woolly hair, obviously still in ‘another world’. Passing him I pressed a “Good Morning” between my teeth and cycled like a madman out of the park. Today I am working with homeless in Taiwan but they have a sense of pride and respect for themselves which obviously cannot be found in this homeless in the 'promised land' of the USA.

   Outside of yesterday’s Big Sur General Store there is a public telephone from which I wanted to call my wife. On a sharp corner I fell down with my bike on the road which never happened before. My rear bag softened the crash and I escaped off this misfortune lightly. Only then I calmed down...I called my wife and daughter but I did not tell them them about this experience. They should enjoy my trip and not worry about me.

   I continued to cycle through a thick forest which belongs to the Andrew Molera State Park. This part of Big Sur is a relatively undeveloped state park, preserving land as requested by the former owner Frances Molera (wikipedia).

   Finally, I reached a treeless area looking more like a ranch, on the left I discovered an obvious empty farmhouse, under the tool roof I took a little break and cover from a light rain. I did not quite realize that I already have passed the Big Sur as I imagined, it was gone at this very moment. The scenery in front of my eyes was much less spectacular, high mountains became plains, the thick forests became sparsely groves and the loneliness would be taken over by busy noises of the cities soon.
   Back on the street I discovered in the distance a vulcanic rock right out of the ocean which reminded me to the Morro Rock at Morro Bay only much wider. On it the blinking light of the Point Sur Lightstation could be seen through the mist. The lighthouse is 12 m (40 feet) tall. 

Point Sur State Historic Park and Lighthouse

www.californiabeaches.com

   
   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent location”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).
   The coast of Big Sur in general is a 'natural' dangerous coast for ships and boats. So, from Aug 01, 1889. this lighthouse made it much safer. Until 1974 keepers and their families lived on the lonely site. After the lighting became automated no one was needed to take care of it. The empty buildings became part of the California Department of Parks and Recreation as the Point Sur State Historic Park.
   When I came to the gate directly beside the Highway 1 it was securely locked. The wind was blowing, there was still a light rain but the light guiding the ships was circling through the morning mist. I continued my way after trying to make a photo in these not favorable conditions.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 31

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest→Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   Returning from the waterfall to the main gate I found my bike still waiting for me, expecting me to continue the ride...

   Back on Highway 1 it got considerable more difficult. The steep road together with the strong headwinds let me get off my bike several time and push it through the spectacular scenery. But like the saying “what goes up must come down” later I experienced a breathtaking downhill ride through redwood forests which also had some conifers, oaks, sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows. The air became much cooler but also very fresh and had a distinguishable scent of needles from trees falling on rich soil.

   Highway 1 led me to the entrance of the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park. Occasionally I passed some house which actually indicated that Big Sur will be over soon. Still on the main road I discovered the Big Sur General Store which is “a Big Sur tradition, offering everything from camping supplies to a great selection of local wines, made-to-order pizzas and burrito bar. We’ll even make summer smoothie with fresh, local fruit.” There I bought my supplies for today’s dinner but also for tomorrow’s breakfast in case I got up so early that the store was still closed. For the location the prices seemed very reasonable to me.

   Leaving Highway 1 on the road to campground I cycled to the Big Sur Lodge which “long has been a haven for writers, artists, seekers of beauty, and weary travelers in search for peace and majesty that the ancient redwoods bestow on body and soul”. The compound includes the hotel and the lodges, but also a restaurant, espresso bar plus a gift shop and a general store.  

   I stopped there and roamed thru the shops open for the public. There have been also different maps and book on the shelf. I opened one book of a female artist from Big Sur with a foreword of the actor, director and producer Clint Eastwood, conveniently the former mayor (1986-1988) of Carmel-by-the-Sea, tomorrow’s stop.

   After I registered myself at the entrance the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park the ranger instructed me to ride to one of the nicest Hiker & Biker on my whole trip! After passing some RVs and a water station for the campers I built up my tent under one large redwood tree, the fallen needles gave me a soft but firm underground. The scent, as mentioned, is for me one of the most intriguing in the world and made me nearly high.

   After I settled myself I noticed a lonesome elderly man sitting on a table playing cards with himself (!). Out of politeness from camper to camper I walked over, sat down and he began to talk. As a 20 years old he reported for duty to the Vietnam war (Nov. 01, 1955-Apr. 04, 1975) and was part of a tank crew. After he returned from war he worked and lived in a restaurant as a cook. The restaurant was sold to an investor who brought in his home team; he lost his job and had to move out of the place he lived. Since then he is homeless and lives on the streets. As he has no permanent residence the government cannot send him the pensions as a war veteran. At the same time President George W. Bush is planning to cut these pensions for the servicemen. Therefore he supports the candidacy of Hillary Clinton because under her husband Bill Clinton ‘everything was better’.

   His goal was to move to Texas where a comrade-in-arms lives. The soldier turned pastor promised him that the homeless can live with him and give him a permanent address that he can receive his pension. Good luck!

   The whole story sounded very reasonable…But smelly and dirty he had obviously no money for a 25 Cents shower but he drank quality beer and had money for grass which he, as he put it, ‘wanted to dope himself for the night.’ The same spirited comrade joined us, ‘a tramper’ how he introduced himself. The soldier collected fire wood even there are many signs that this is not allowed because of 'fire hazards' but he made a big fire with high flames anyway. To my question ‘is this allowed in a State Park?’ he answered that he "cleans up the wood of the forest and prevent the forest from burning!"

   Finally I looked for a reason to leave both of them. Honestly I have experiences with a drunken and out of control father but no experience with drug users whatsoever. But I know that people can do terrible things when they are high and out of control. For my own and my equipment’s safety I locked my bike very tightly on the tree, my whole luggage I stuffed in my one man tent with one bag serving as a pillow and the other as a pad under my legs and was surprised how good I slept.

   Only once I woke up from the monotone sound of falling raindrops but I did not want to peel myself out of my small tent so I just kept on sleeping.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 30

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest →Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   After my Welsh friends left I finished my morning coffee I continued to cruise along Highway 1.

   The advantage of riding on a bike is that you move at a much slower pace than, for example in a car, and have more time to look around and enjoy the scenery. At a faster pace I would not notice a perfect preserved skeleton of a dog right beside the road. Laying there between fresh flowers it made actually a quite peaceful picture.

   I’ve also met three elderly bikers riding from north to south. It’s nice that many old aged people try to be active; I think a bike is a perfect companion to stay fit and healthy…

   As the weather got warmer I crossed the road and stopped at a nice outlook over the coast of Big Sur. The weather got warmer and I took of my trekking trousers which I wore over my bike shorts because of the very cold morning.

   I continued and arrived at a road construction site, each end secured by a worker with a red flag in his hand and equipped with a radio communicating with each other. As I came closer the worker said into his radio “a lonely bike rider!” Because I was really alone, his words echoed from the face of a rock behind him in a louder voice than talking to the radio. In this ‘weird’ situation both of us had to laugh. The 2nd worker on the other end stopped many cars and it took some uphill time until I passed him. After a greeting he finally let the  waiting cars go.

   After around 15km it came to my mind that I should check on my trousers. I discovered that they were gone... So I had to return and look for them. After a while I came to the 2nd worker who looked at me curiously. While it was my turn downhill I smiled at him and explained “I lost something”. I said the same to the worker on the other side.
   I Indeed found my trousers not far away from the place I took them off and stuffed them securely in my duffel bag. Riding back to the first worker I explained him that I found my pants; the 2nd worker told me while I passed by “you found your pants!”. Probably the 1st worker reported the 2nd over the radio about my fortune. If I packed my trousers properly the 1st time I would not waste 1 ½ hours of my travel time…On the other side I would not met these two kind road construction workers.

   Yesterday evening the Chinese-American biker couple told me about the waterfall at Pfeiffer Burns State Park, according to the husband the most beautiful on the whole trip.

   As I came to the exit I wanted to take the time to have a look by myself. I left Highway 1 and cycled to a wooden house, beside it I locked my bike on an iron gate. I took my camera and followed a small path und a bridge below Highway 1. Finally I came to the 24.4 m high McWay Falls from which falls fresh water from a rock into the ocean. Yesterday’s acquaintance did not exaggerate; it is truly a breathtaking view!  I took my time and just sat on the guardrail and watched the spectacle nature. Due to the relative early morning I nearly had the view for myself...

   The State Park is named after Julia Pfeiffer Burns, a respected resident and rancher in the Big Sur region. She lived in the beginning of the 20th century until her death in 1928 here.

(to be continued)