Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 31

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest→Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   Returning from the waterfall to the main gate I found my bike still waiting for me, expecting me to continue the ride...

   Back on Highway 1 it got considerable more difficult. The steep road together with the strong headwinds let me get off my bike several time and push it through the spectacular scenery. But like the saying “what goes up must come down” later I experienced a breathtaking downhill ride through redwood forests which also had some conifers, oaks, sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows. The air became much cooler but also very fresh and had a distinguishable scent of needles from trees falling on rich soil.

   Highway 1 led me to the entrance of the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park. Occasionally I passed some house which actually indicated that Big Sur will be over soon. Still on the main road I discovered the Big Sur General Store which is “a Big Sur tradition, offering everything from camping supplies to a great selection of local wines, made-to-order pizzas and burrito bar. We’ll even make summer smoothie with fresh, local fruit.” There I bought my supplies for today’s dinner but also for tomorrow’s breakfast in case I got up so early that the store was still closed. For the location the prices seemed very reasonable to me.

   Leaving Highway 1 on the road to campground I cycled to the Big Sur Lodge which “long has been a haven for writers, artists, seekers of beauty, and weary travelers in search for peace and majesty that the ancient redwoods bestow on body and soul”. The compound includes the hotel and the lodges, but also a restaurant, espresso bar plus a gift shop and a general store.  

   I stopped there and roamed thru the shops open for the public. There have been also different maps and book on the shelf. I opened one book of a female artist from Big Sur with a foreword of the actor, director and producer Clint Eastwood, conveniently the former mayor (1986-1988) of Carmel-by-the-Sea, tomorrow’s stop.

   After I registered myself at the entrance the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park the ranger instructed me to ride to one of the nicest Hiker & Biker on my whole trip! After passing some RVs and a water station for the campers I built up my tent under one large redwood tree, the fallen needles gave me a soft but firm underground. The scent, as mentioned, is for me one of the most intriguing in the world and made me nearly high.

   After I settled myself I noticed a lonesome elderly man sitting on a table playing cards with himself (!). Out of politeness from camper to camper I walked over, sat down and he began to talk. As a 20 years old he reported for duty to the Vietnam war (Nov. 01, 1955-Apr. 04, 1975) and was part of a tank crew. After he returned from war he worked and lived in a restaurant as a cook. The restaurant was sold to an investor who brought in his home team; he lost his job and had to move out of the place he lived. Since then he is homeless and lives on the streets. As he has no permanent residence the government cannot send him the pensions as a war veteran. At the same time President George W. Bush is planning to cut these pensions for the servicemen. Therefore he supports the candidacy of Hillary Clinton because under her husband Bill Clinton ‘everything was better’.

   His goal was to move to Texas where a comrade-in-arms lives. The soldier turned pastor promised him that the homeless can live with him and give him a permanent address that he can receive his pension. Good luck!

   The whole story sounded very reasonable…But smelly and dirty he had obviously no money for a 25 Cents shower but he drank quality beer and had money for grass which he, as he put it, ‘wanted to dope himself for the night.’ The same spirited comrade joined us, ‘a tramper’ how he introduced himself. The soldier collected fire wood even there are many signs that this is not allowed because of 'fire hazards' but he made a big fire with high flames anyway. To my question ‘is this allowed in a State Park?’ he answered that he "cleans up the wood of the forest and prevent the forest from burning!"

   Finally I looked for a reason to leave both of them. Honestly I have experiences with a drunken and out of control father but no experience with drug users whatsoever. But I know that people can do terrible things when they are high and out of control. For my own and my equipment’s safety I locked my bike very tightly on the tree, my whole luggage I stuffed in my one man tent with one bag serving as a pillow and the other as a pad under my legs and was surprised how good I slept.

   Only once I woke up from the monotone sound of falling raindrops but I did not want to peel myself out of my small tent so I just kept on sleeping.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 30

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest →Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   After my Welsh friends left I finished my morning coffee I continued to cruise along Highway 1.

   The advantage of riding on a bike is that you move at a much slower pace than, for example in a car, and have more time to look around and enjoy the scenery. At a faster pace I would not notice a perfect preserved skeleton of a dog right beside the road. Laying there between fresh flowers it made actually a quite peaceful picture.

   I’ve also met three elderly bikers riding from north to south. It’s nice that many old aged people try to be active; I think a bike is a perfect companion to stay fit and healthy…

   As the weather got warmer I crossed the road and stopped at a nice outlook over the coast of Big Sur. The weather got warmer and I took of my trekking trousers which I wore over my bike shorts because of the very cold morning.

   I continued and arrived at a road construction site, each end secured by a worker with a red flag in his hand and equipped with a radio communicating with each other. As I came closer the worker said into his radio “a lonely bike rider!” Because I was really alone, his words echoed from the face of a rock behind him in a louder voice than talking to the radio. In this ‘weird’ situation both of us had to laugh. The 2nd worker on the other end stopped many cars and it took some uphill time until I passed him. After a greeting he finally let the  waiting cars go.

   After around 15km it came to my mind that I should check on my trousers. I discovered that they were gone... So I had to return and look for them. After a while I came to the 2nd worker who looked at me curiously. While it was my turn downhill I smiled at him and explained “I lost something”. I said the same to the worker on the other side.
   I Indeed found my trousers not far away from the place I took them off and stuffed them securely in my duffel bag. Riding back to the first worker I explained him that I found my pants; the 2nd worker told me while I passed by “you found your pants!”. Probably the 1st worker reported the 2nd over the radio about my fortune. If I packed my trousers properly the 1st time I would not waste 1 ½ hours of my travel time…On the other side I would not met these two kind road construction workers.

   Yesterday evening the Chinese-American biker couple told me about the waterfall at Pfeiffer Burns State Park, according to the husband the most beautiful on the whole trip.

   As I came to the exit I wanted to take the time to have a look by myself. I left Highway 1 and cycled to a wooden house, beside it I locked my bike on an iron gate. I took my camera and followed a small path und a bridge below Highway 1. Finally I came to the 24.4 m high McWay Falls from which falls fresh water from a rock into the ocean. Yesterday’s acquaintance did not exaggerate; it is truly a breathtaking view!  I took my time and just sat on the guardrail and watched the spectacle nature. Due to the relative early morning I nearly had the view for myself...

   The State Park is named after Julia Pfeiffer Burns, a respected resident and rancher in the Big Sur region. She lived in the beginning of the 20th century until her death in 1928 here.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 24

Monday, Sep. 17, 2007

Friendly America

Morro Rock - San Simeon State Park

Distance: 72.35 km, Timer: 5:09:21 hrs, Total: 782.97 km

   After I left the brick and mortar shop of Cambria Bicycle Outfitter I spent some time checking out Cambria. It was very clean and nearly every house made of wood. I felt back at least 100 years back in time. Every tourist longing for ‘tradition’ in the USA should go there and have a good look.

   What stood out for me was the high portion of European Americans which was unusual high; I could neither see one African American or one Mexican anywhere during my 1 ½ hours research of the town for 1 ½ hours.

   As I wanted to say farewell to the city leaving for Highway 1 northbound I've heard someone shouting my name. I've turned around and recognized the young man who lead my way on his bike from the hardware store to the bike shop. He went with his girlfriend for lunch. After a small talk he shook my hand and wished me good luck for my trip.

   Leaving Cambria I did not quite realize that the road ahead was already a part of Big Sur, a rugged section of California's Central Coast between the Carmel Highlands in the north and San Simeon in the south where the Santa Lucia Mountains rise abruptly from the Pacific Ocean, that is frequently praised for its dramatic views. Big Sur has been called the 'longest and most scenic stretch of undeveloped coastline in the contiguous United States', a 'national treasure that demands extraordinary procedures to protect it from development' and 'one of the most beautiful coastlines anywhere in the world', an isolated stretch of road, mythic in reputation.' (wikipedia)

   Two miles north I came to the San Simeon State Park and Campground for in which I planned to stay for the night. After leaving Highway I came to a small wooden hut which already prepared the registration forms. I registered me, my bike and the tent on the Hiker & Bike, put US$2.00 in an envelop and threw it into a letter box - finished was the DIY registration.

   I wrote to the designated Hiker & Biker and pitched up my tent. I threw all three of my bags (two rear panniers) and one duffel bag into my tent and decided to ride back to Cambria. I remembered a big supermarket at the northern side of the city and wanted to get there for some food and drinks.

   The road was mostly downhill, I enjoyed to ride without any luggage. It did not take long and after arrival I forget to bring a lock. Again, I had 'Gottvertrauen' (trust/faith into the lord) and just leaned it beside a rail protecting the shopping carts. As Big Sur is a long and lonely road I bought a lot of stuff for the road; my bike which was still where I parked it waiting for me!

   While riding back to the State Park I rode and eat 'salt sticks' or 'pretzel sticks' as they are know. Suddenly I noticed a squirrel jumping and running on a wooden path beside the road. I stopped and threw a salt stick in its direction. He took it, sat on his rear legs and nibbled the stick holding it on with his front feet paws. I made a photo before it took off with its possession onto the next tree. I assumed that the squirrel could handle the pretzel stick better than ex-President George W. Bush who chocked on a pretzel and fell on the floor from a couch, bruising his lip and scuffing his cheek!

   Back to the State Park I enjoyed a generous dinner. The food which needed cooling I ate first and finished the whole dinner with a nice cake! After I had eaten I thanked God that He was so kind to give me delicious food to eat and a nice place for the night!   

   (to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 16

Thursday, Sep. 13, 2007

Santa Barbara

Carpinteria→Refugio State Beach

Distance: 63:57 km, Duration: 5:12:52 hrs, Total: 395.82 km

   After Santa Barbara the Highway 1 become the Freeway (!) 101 and not without a little bit of pride I was allowed to ride my bike on the Freeway totally legal! In Germany this would be unthinkable. After riding not for a long time a road sign told me to leave for Refugio State Beach. 

On the Road to the Refugio State Beach

   At exactly 4 o'clock in the afternoon I registered at the Hiker & Biker ($5.00) and let my bike roll down the main road. As I came to the designated area I was the only biker as far as I could see. Therefore I build up my tent wherever I wanted and threw my other stuff in it.  

Refugio State Beach Campsite Map

  To explore the area I sat on my bike and checked out the whole campground. I passed some camping trailers and RVs and cycled to the only shop. It was closed and only opens on weekends. On the whole Refugio State Beach I discovered only elders and families with children. As words of mouth by bikers spread quickly I suppose 'boredom' is the reason why most bikers avoid this State Beach.
   With nothing to do and no one to talk I washed my clothes and hung them into a tree to let them dry from the wind. In the evening the wind became so strong that I decided to hang them on a safer place. I also carried my simple one man tent behind a palm tree, otherwise it would be blown away!

Taking Rest in Refugio State Beach

   To fight the boredom I put my new bike computer on the bike which, despite the circumstances (strong wind, pure light in the evening & a simple multi tool) was relatively easy. Only the magnet into the wheel, the wires (!) along the fork up to the handlebar, the computer into its holder and calibrating according to the manual and - finished! Of course troublesome compared to the GPS-based wireless bike computers we are using today. I did not throw away the old bike computer, a few additional grams would not make any difference to the total weight. 

   In the most boring of all State Parks or Beaches I went to bed or rather into the sleeping bag at 8:15 pm. Despite the howling of the wind during the whole night I slept like a baby...

Refugio State Beach

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 10

In the Backyard of Los Angeles

Coastal Highway 1→Ventura

Distance: 104.02 km, Duration: 5:07:44 hrs, Total: 285.65km

I planned to cycle to the before mentioned military port but it was not, understandable, open for the public.After Oxnard the Highway 1 is still merged with the Freeway 101 and therefore bikes are still an taboo; so I had to find another way to the north. On the way I discovered a large superstore and went in to cool down and look around. I bought a pair of cycling gloves ($9.90) and some chocolate cake as a snack on the road. In a fast food restaurant I ordered chicken wings ($2.20). As I have a photo of my daughter in my wallet the waitress asked me if she is of mixed race.

Private Home beside the Road with a Mission Bell

The whole ride was an easy flat road until I finally I arrived the area of San Buenaventura or short Ventura, a very peaceful place with clean and one of the best streets I came to experience. . 

The Roman Catholic Spanish priest and friar of the Franciscan Order Father Junipero Serra (1713-1784) founded the San Buenaventura Mission on Easter Sunday on March 31, 1782, which developed into today’s city. 

Statue of Father Junipero Serra

In 1914 the Union Oil Company discovered a major oilfield in the district of Ventura which tries to moderate the dependence on imported oil for energy-hungry America until today. 

The delta created by the junction of the Ventura River and the Santa Clara River created a natural very fertile land which, together with the sunny weather, it is very suitable for the cultivation of tropical fruit. To market and sell its products the farmers founded the 'Sunkist Growers' which is famous for its fruit and juices all over the world. In Germany as a kid we pronounced it wrong, more like 'soon' than 'sun'. Strangely the 'kist' is obviously a German word for 'box', a reference either to the form of their juice packing or the boxes in which the fruits (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, tangerines & tangelos, mandarins) are handled and stored.

Despite all it’s development Ventura still has not more than 100.000 residents and preserved it’s charm of a small town with some noticeable prosperity.

Ventura Pier

I rode along Harbor Road into a small harbor with beautiful lined boats. On the waterfront were some anglers and fishermen waiting for the catch of the day. Beside the long into the ocean reaching Ventura Pier were some surfers despite the cold weather still in the water. As I could see all of them wore surfer suits made of neoprene to protect themselves from the cold. I discovered a family wearing thick white Norwegian pullovers or sweaters as they walked on the beach into the sunset.

Walking into the Sunset

The road led me to a railroad crossing, the signal of the lowering gate let me brake my bike. The first and only time I had to wait for a yellow freight train which moved very slowly with seemingly uncountable wagons pulling passed me and the many other cars waiting. After very slow 5 minutes the gates were opened and we could finally move on.

I rode into town and tried to find out the Emma Wood State Beach. On the left side on a good road I discovered a sign showing the way to a private campground. As the sun was setting I wanted at least, like yesterday, ask for the price. Again, I was shocked to hear the price of US$45.00! I thanked from my heart but preferred to continued to the State Park. Unfortunately a large gate block closed the road and therefore I was prompted to look for another 'wild' campsite for the night. I returned to the town center with one eye on the road and the other searching for a suitable place in the approaching night.

The road led me onto a steep hill, the houses became fewer and fewer. In the already dark night I found a nice place beside an oilfield with constantly moving pumps. I unpacked my sleeping bag and zipped myself inside. Sometimes I heard lonely cars passing by but the sound of the working pumps rocked me into a wonderful sleep.

"If there wasn't anything to find out, it would be dull. Even trying to find out and not finding out is just as interesting as trying to find out and finding out; and I don't know but more so." Eve's Diary by Mark Twain

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 8

Monday, Sep. 10.2007

Finally on the Road!

Hollywood→Coastal Highway 1

Distance: 107.42 km, Duration: 7:51:28 hours, Total Distance: 181.63 km

I continued the Coastal Highway (as the Highway 1 is named here) and bought in a shopping center a large sandwich for my dinner ($3.20). 

View beside the Coastal Highway (near Malibu)

As I continued riding I discovered a sign with the direction to a camp site. As the sun already prepared to get down I wanted to take the chance to get some information. After a short but steep climb I cycled into an elderly lady and asked for the price for myself, my bike and a small tent for one night. She calculated and gave me the price for US$45.00! I was shocked but did not try to show. To my question if there are not cheaper possibilities she took a map out of a drawer and showed me a State Park which had a campsite on a far distance. I said farewell to the kind lady and tried to cycle to the place she has shown. 
Two hours I rode into the evening but I still was far away from my destination. I stopped at a supermarket and bought something to drink ($1.83). It was getting dark that without light I barely recognized the shoulders of the road. It became somehow dangerous, several times I nearly fell from my bike due to some surface irregularities of the road. Also because of this reason I decided to give up my plan to ride to the campsite. 
Beside the Highway 1 I discovered a housing community uphill on the right sight of the road, in front of the houses was in a green tidy pitch of grass not far from the road light. Opposite was a kind of military barrack which indicated to me that is is a very safe place.
For the first time on US soil I took out my sleeping bag and was very excited about it. The weather was not bad therefore I left my small tent in the duffel bag. As I cuddled in my sleeping bag it seemed that between the stars on the clear sky I have seen my wife and my daughter smiling to me. Happily I felt asleep!
Even as the night became colder from the wind and moist of the nearby ocean I had a 'peaceful easy feeling' during my sleep. 

Taking rest in a Park

   

Wednesday, Sep. 11 2007

In the Backyard of Los Angeles

Coastal Highway 1→Ventura

Distance: 104.02 km, Duration: 5:07:44 hrs, Total: 285.65km

After a good rest I left my cozy sleeping bag in the early morning not before a prayer. I cleaned up my surroundings which was so kind to give me safe and quiet place for the night. I took the garbage with me as all travelers should do...

I continued to cycle on Highway 1 which between Santa Monica and Oxnard is also called the 'Roosevelt Highway'. The morning was still very young and I cycled from a rocky coast road to an open flat landscape. Here the Highway becomes a Freeway and cyclist are  prompted by a traffic sign to leave the Freeway. Therefore I had to leave the main road and had to find a suitable way on my own. 

Trucker on the road...

The open landscape is made for farming and agriculture, this area might be the backyard of greater Los Angeles. Indeed I discovered for the first time some farm hands working in the field. On an already prepared field some workers installed water pipes in the earth for water irrigation. Because it seems "it never rains in Southern California" the water must be redirected from a aqueduct or viaduct through the desert. On the whole way to San Francisco and up to Sonoma County and Napa Valley I witnessed the same water irrigation system for fruits, vegetables and even the grapes for the famous Californian wine.

Farmers working in the Field

“Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous, and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bonds.”Thomas Jefferson 

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 7

Monday, Sep. 10.2007

Finally on the Road!

Hollywood→Coastal Highway 1

Distance: 107.42 km, Duration: 7:51:28 hours, Total Distance: 181.63 km

After solving the problems with the rear carrier and the chain on my bike I was finally able to leave Santa Monica; my only way was up north to San Francisco along the famous Highway 1.

One of the 'most celebrated routes' starts actually in San Diego, not far from the Mexican border, travels north to the beach towns, the bustles and excitement of Los Angels, through elegant Santa Barbara and surrounding wine country, north to even more beaches and attractions in Carmel, Montgomery and Santa Cruz until it ends in San Francisco, the 'Bay City'. I've chosen this road because of Big Sur, a only lightly populated, unincorporated region on California's Central Coast praised for its rugged coastline, mountain views and the nature which has been called the 'longest and most scenic stretch of 'undeveloped' coastline in the United States' (wikipedia)". 
I steered my steel horse, or more exactly my alloy horse, along Ocean Avenue with the Pacific coast all the way on my left. The road turned to the right, I turned left into the Entrada Drive which led me directly to the Pacific Coast Highway (or Highway 1). For the next two to three weeks, so my plan, this road would led me all the way to my destination San Francisco. Depending on the time I would see how to spend the rest of my holidays... 

Malibu City Limits

After a last glance back over my shoulder to Santa Monica the the horizon belonged to me. I have to admit that it was a liberating feeling to have the street under my tires.

The road was wide and smooth and build for the traffic between greater Los Angeles and Malibu. From far away I could see the fresh renovated Malibu Pier reaching far into the ocean. It was originally built in 1905 to ship hides, crop, fruit and other agrarian products from the Malibu Rancho of Mr. Frederick Hastings Rindge (1857-1905). The Rindge private railway (!) moving the freight within the Ranch had a station near the Pier.

In 1934 the Pier was opened for public and charter fishing; after the bankruptcy of the Marblehead Land Co. (Ringe's land developer) the Malibu Pier was overtaken by the same share holders who also financed the development of the city of Malibu itself in 1936. Two years later today's 237 meter long Malibu Pier was built with the first small fishing businesses. In the winter of 1943-1944 the pier was destroyed by a storm and after the II. Word War the new pier was built with the characteristic towers, fishing shops and a restaurant at the end. In 1980 the State of California bought the rather battered pier, the State Department of Parks and Recreation declared the pier a 'Historic Landmark' through the Los Angeles County. An El Nino (fluctuation in the earth's climate system) in 1993 damaged the pier so heavily that only after a $10.000.000 renovation it was opened in 2008 (wikipedia).

Malibu Pier

I got off my bike and walked around. I discovered may seagulls which made some risky maneuvers in the sky or settled on the many rocks. On the Malibu Surfrider Beach many surfers waited for or surfed on the waves of the afternoon. I've heard that some Hollywood stars or those who think who are stars come here to surf. 

Malibu Beach

My bike lead me to the Malibu Lagoon where the Malibu Creek meets the Pacific Ocean. I dared to cross the busy road and found an only 0.089 square kilometer large but species-rich natural habitat which is protected by nature conversation under the State Beach.

At the entrance there are some free camping benches and tables on this afternoon. As a respect to nature I went off my bike in the lonesome lagoon and pushed it over a bridge; from there were many birds to be seen and discovered even for an untrained eye. It's hard to believe that the busy highway is only a few meters away. 
I walked until the end of the path which led me directly beside the ocean. I stood there for a while to absorb the silence of the nature. When I returned I ran into the only other human whom I greeted with a friendly 'hello'...

Malibu Lagoon in the afternoon

(to be continued)