Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 36

Friday, Sep. 21., 2007

Beautiful Sunrise in Monterey

Monterey→?

Distance: 118:30 km, Time: 7:34:14 Std., Total: 1,154.30 km

   While some fishing boats chugged along the coast not far away were some sailboats and yachts of the rich and famous peacefully in the water.

   
   Walking along the water and the coast itself look more like a large natural reserve, nearly every rock was occupied with birds of different kinds and the previously mentioned seals.
   I continued to the in Spanish Colonial style built Old Customhouse by the Mexican government around 1827. The Customhouse was the state’s first designated California Historical Landmark, marking the site where the U.S. Commodore John Drake Sloat (1781-1867) raised the American flag and declared California part of the United States in 1846. While I took a picture from the building a homeless slept in front of this historical building. 

   My stomach started to mumble after the long and extensive walk but more from the fresh air, therefore I decided to turn back to the Hostel. In the kitchen I ran into a group of retired British elderly ladies. Talking to them they had nothing but travel in their minds, next year they want to visit Australia. As they were making pancakes they invited me to join them for the breakfast.
   Back into the room I met John who came here for the famous Monterey Jazz Festival which will happen new weekend (Sep. 21 -23). Of course he shared his excitement and talked at lengthy about the music event. Even I had no idea what he was talking about I occasionally joined the one way conversation. I think it is polite to listen to others even it is not absolutely my own taste.

   Slowly I started to pack my things, as a base I used my bed. From the window I could see two of three homeless who were arrested by police officers yesterday. Finally I had to say farewell to my room, took the sheet, blanket and pillow covers off and threw them in the prepared box beside the reception.
   Both hands full of bags I passed the homeless on the way to the bike box. One of them noted that “you have a lot to carry!” After packing my bike I rode to the main entrance, parked my bike beside the door and went in. I checked out and received yesterday’s deposit for the bike box of US$2.00 without any objections.
   Monterey was for me a clear highlight of the whole trip. To learn more about this friendly city I would like to stay longer, maybe an idea for my next trip?
   I rode the same road I walked in the morning and just followed the road beside the coast with occasionally some beaches.  On one I’ve discovered a long line of homeless which I’ve seen in my life. Volunteer gave them free breakfast and coffee. It is nice that private citizens do this but where is the government? I’ve discovered some ‘clean’ people in the line who got served the same like the homeless but paid for their food and coffee.
   I continued on the bike path direction north, the ocean on the right.  My bike rode into an industrial area; there I’ve discovered some interesting car dealerships and repair shops. In front of one of them I stopped because I discovered a baby blue Volkswagen beetle. As an ex-trainee of a Volkswagen/Audi/Porsche  dealership in Germany the ‘WE DO’ WORK ON VOLKSWAGEN AIR COOLED’ lettering should absolutely on the photo.

(to be continued) 

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 35

Friday, Sep. 21., 2007

Beautiful Sunrise in Monterey

Monterey→?

Distance: 118:30 km, Time: 7:34:14 Std., Total:   1,154.30 km

   When I already woke up at 6:00 in the morning the sun was still sleeping. Not to wake up my roommates I took carefully my camera and locked the door very quietly.

   This early I wanted to check the Cannery Row, the renovated and closely built sardine cannery factories which are lined along the coastline. I wanted to visit the still active fisherman’s wharf and walk until the historical Custom House.

   Chinese fishermen came with their families on junks over the Pacific Ocean and established the fishing industry in Monterey during 1850s. Because the markets for fresh fish were far away they dried the fish in the same way as it was custom at home.

   With the opening of Booth Cannery and the Monterey Fishing & Canning Co., a Japanese-American joint venture, fresh fish could be processed on the spot and conserved in 1902. The demand especially after the American anticipation during the 1st World War (1916-1918) was very high and drew other companies into the area. Because of the rich fishing grounds and industry Monterey was called the “Sardine Capital of the world”.

   To stimulate the economy during the Great Depression (1929-1939) the U.S. government allowed the processing of sardines into fishmeal and fertilizers.

   Joining the 2nd World War (1941-1945) the demand and with it the fishing of sardines was increased to a new level. As a consequence of this overfishing died of lack of fish supply the whole fishing industry of Monterey within the next 5 years. Already in 1945   John Steinbeck immortalized his novel “Cannery Row” the different types of workers and made them famous over the borders of the USA.

   From the Hostel there are only a few steps, therefore I arrived at the 1927 built American Tin Cannery. Today the building, like all other former canneries, accommodates different kind of shops selling clothes, gifts, jewelers and delicatessen. The obligatory restaurants serving fresh seafood cannot be missed.

   Across the road beside the Recreation Trail is the 1984 opened Monterey Bay Aquarium (MBA), in which visitor can learn everything about the marine life. Per year 1.8 million visitors discover thousands of plants and animals represented by 623 named species. A high supply of fresh seawater directly from Monterey Bay guarantees the natural development. Unfortunately the doors were closed on this early morning; every adult should expect ticket prices of US$29.95/person (in 2007!)

   I passed the Monterey Plaza Hotel and only a few workers were busily cleaning up and preparing the place for the business of the day. In the yard I could discover a fountain with jumping dolphins over a wave and made a picture with the rising sun in the background.  

   As I walked I heard some seals barking. Maybe they searched for a breakfast or shared with their relatives the best hunting grounds (for sardines?). I don’t know… But as closer I came to the Fisherman’s Wharf as more of the seals I could actually see. They were either active in the water or were lazy lying on some rocks. 

   As the history of Montery is closely knitted with the fishing industry I absolutely wanted to see the Fisherman‘s Wharf. Everything is build on through water driven wooden stakes into the ground, on them were build the simple wooden houses and the gangplanks in between. The predominant fish and tourist shops were obviously closed and therefore a notable morning silence covered the whole scene. I walked until the end and stood there watching the bay. On the way I only met some elderly ladies talking their morning stroll. I stood at the edge of the water and let it all come in me.

   I discovered a statue with which the city honors the fishermen working so hard to build  the foundation the city. I think it’s a great gesture by which the rich and famous recognize the work of the people who actually created the wealth of Monterey with their bare hands!

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 34

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Back to Humans

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey
Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1.036 km

  I asked an elderly lady walking her dog where I could find the Hostel. She was very kind and showed me with her forefinger the direction. At exactly 4:00 in the afternoon I rang the bell of the closed door, and a sleepy hostel warden opened the door. He explained me that I have to came back at 5:00, they are still closed. I wanted to wait this one hour.

   Through the door I stepped into an oasis of silence, it was very quiet. The lounge looked like a large living room with thick English leather club armchairs and sofas; the many books in the shelves invite the guests to linger longer than intended. The only drops of bitterness came in the form of wooden boxes in which you had to drop coins to connect to the internet. To the defense of the hostel I want to add that I listened to the owner and some employees that they planned to upgrade the equipment.
   Stepping into the room I realized that this was my first bed after my departure from Los Angeles two weeks (!) ago. The room had several bunker beds but as the first in the room I chose a single bed beside the window. It had white bed linen and a white pillow cover with a white blanket and looked very clean to me. I could control the air flow of the window from my bed in case it got to hot. I had my own plug socket where I could load my batteries of the camera.

   But the best of the whole hostel experience was a big lockable bike box behind the building with enough additional space for my bags and my camping gear. I had to put down a deposit of US$ 2.00 which was refunded to me the next morning without problems.

   After I had settled I wanted to wash my clothes. Not far away from the hostel I found a DIY laundry. As one cycle takes 20 minutes I crossed the road and went into a supermarket to buy some supplies. As I returned to the laundry I notice a strong young white man through the glass door who piled up orderly coins on one of the washing mashine. I passed him and had to wait for some minutes until the spin cycle was completes.

   After me a Mexican young man stepped into the laundry. His clothes were washed, with one hand he sorted his clothes, with the other he talked Spanish into the cell phone. Suddenly the young man bad-mouthed him with very dirty words. I immediately noticed that he was mentally disabled and decided to walk with a smile towards the young Mexican  in support. I told him that he should not take this seriously. The Mexican smiled and left the laundry.

   The young white man opened the still running (!) washing machine and took the very wet clothes out of it, changing the floor into a swimming pool. As the only other person in the laundry I had to step in and advised him with a very authoritative voice to “put the wet clothes back in the machine until it is finished!” To my surprise he followed my strong voice, actually bit himself into his forefinger (!), kicked several times (!) against the running washing machine and finally ran out of the laundry with the words “I am in a bad mood, I am in a bad mood!” I was alone now, packed my things and went back to the hostel.

   Back into my room I could observe two police officers arresting three homeless. Behind the hostel there are several empty chairs and tables for tourists but have been seized by the homeless. They have been drunk and bawled so disturbing that one of the neighbors made a report. One cop had leather gloves and asked for their identity, of course they did not have any. The other cop put disposable handcuffs on all three of them while in the police car a German Shepherd barked. Five people, two policemen, three homeless and one barking dog drove away. Tomorrow morning I would run into two of the homeless on my way to the bike box sitting on the same chairs.

   I've met two young British men who rented a car and discovered California with it. We had a lot to exchange...Before I went to sleep a 10:30 I still checked my charger. 

  I had a nice sleep and woke up to open the window in the middle of the night. Maybe I still longed for the lonely nights in Big Sur...Sweet dreams accompanied me thru the night.

http://www.montereyhostel.org/

(to be continued)