Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 12

Tuesday, Sep. 12. 2007

I heard a Mission Bell...

Ventura→Carpinteria

Distance: 46.6 km, Duration: 3:19:08 hrs, Total: 332.25 km 

I cycled along yesterday's road and the locked door was opened. The way lead me to the entrance of the Emma Wood State Beach. On the board of the empty attendant's hut I discovered the prices for one night of Biker & Hiker: US$5.00/person. Maybe I should somehow get around the gate and spend the night beside the ocean. But it was too late for that...

View on the Pacific Ocean

From the State Beach there is a bike path directly beside the ocean direction north. It was a great feeling to cycle under the warm morning sun between the beach and the roaring sea. I thought I've heard an irregular whistling sound from an approaching train. After the bike path led into the Highway 1 the California Pacific Surfliner painted in silver and blue matching the ocean and the sky passed me. The train serves the route between San Diego and San Luis Obispo 12 times a day. According to my information bikes can be taken on the train for $5.00-$10.00/bike (http://www.pacificsurfliner.com/).

California Pacific Surfliner

Arround 11:30 I reached Carpinteria, a 12 miles south of Santa Barbara located small clean town. The name originated from the Chumash Indians who made in a relative big wood working shop (Carpinteria) seaworthy canoes (or 'Tomols') out of redwood or pine. They were propelled with kayak-like paddles in a crouching position. With these boats the Indians went fishing or traded with other coastal Indian tribes. 

The gate to the State Beach of Carpinteria was not far away and good signposted. In front of the main entrance I discovered an elderly gentlemen who photographed from his bike a picture of the sign. I rode to him and started in English a conversation. From his pronunciation I realized he was not a native speaker so we started to talk in German. He was a 60 years old pensioner and had to deal with the loss of his dying wife a few years ago. Because as a young man he watched once on German TV a truck race in Alaska his children encouraged him to fulfill his dream. Therefore he cycled with his older brother from Alaska over Canada through Washington and Oregon State until we met today in California. On his still intact speedometer there were over 6.000 km recorded! If that wasn't enough he still planned to pedal to Mexico. As I cycled from south to north I asked my German friend for some advice. Finally we separated - friend, I wish you the best on your way!

Unfortunately the ranger at the State Beach, for whatever reasons, would not let me in before afternoon 4 o'clock! 

I rode into the town and tried to find a bicycle shop to replace my broken chain which I fixed by cutting off some links. During a red traffic light I asked a young biker was waiting beside of me for a bike shop. He only answered that I should follow him and a he led me to a professional bike shop. 

Life is a Beach

As I went inside I was surprised to find a Japanese working here. Because there was no other customer and his English was better than my Japanese I took the chance to know more about him. He told me that he and his wife traveled 10 years ago to Carpinteria and fell in love with this place. They decided to leave crowded Tokyo and move to California. They are the only Japanese in this community. He told me that his home Tokyo changed a lot. There are, for example, road signs not only in Japanese but also in Korean and Chinese. Even when they sometimes visit their home country they can only hardly imagine to move back to Japan. I bought a chain 'made in Taiwan' for my 9 speed cassette ($25.00).

Because I had some time before the State Park opened and I could save the $6.00 he asked for the change I wanted to replace the chain by myself. With the chain in my bag I left and cycled around. I found a beautiful park with benches and a table in a shadows.

'Workbench' in the Park

   The park bench was not far away from a playground. While I was working on my bike from watching people I realized that the 'American Way of Life' is quite different. I watched mothers driving the SUVs directly to the front of the playground slide, let their children play there for a few minutes, packed them back into their SUVs and drove away. In my German hometown the parents walk to the playground, let the children play by themselves (also in the sand) and go home after several hours!

I was glad that I had a peace of mind with the new bike chain and could move on as planned. In the future I would bring an extra "Missing Link" which can be used to repair the chain without tools. After fitting or replacing this link the whole chain would work without problems and could be used flawlessly...

Generally it helps to try repairs on the bike by yourself. The internet and even sometimes the friendly bike mechanics is willing to share information on how things work, what to look out for and how to deal with problems. In situations on the road the repair experiences are worthwhile and can save the cycling day. 

 (to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 10

In the Backyard of Los Angeles

Coastal Highway 1→Ventura

Distance: 104.02 km, Duration: 5:07:44 hrs, Total: 285.65km

I planned to cycle to the before mentioned military port but it was not, understandable, open for the public.After Oxnard the Highway 1 is still merged with the Freeway 101 and therefore bikes are still an taboo; so I had to find another way to the north. On the way I discovered a large superstore and went in to cool down and look around. I bought a pair of cycling gloves ($9.90) and some chocolate cake as a snack on the road. In a fast food restaurant I ordered chicken wings ($2.20). As I have a photo of my daughter in my wallet the waitress asked me if she is of mixed race.

Private Home beside the Road with a Mission Bell

The whole ride was an easy flat road until I finally I arrived the area of San Buenaventura or short Ventura, a very peaceful place with clean and one of the best streets I came to experience. . 

The Roman Catholic Spanish priest and friar of the Franciscan Order Father Junipero Serra (1713-1784) founded the San Buenaventura Mission on Easter Sunday on March 31, 1782, which developed into today’s city. 

Statue of Father Junipero Serra

In 1914 the Union Oil Company discovered a major oilfield in the district of Ventura which tries to moderate the dependence on imported oil for energy-hungry America until today. 

The delta created by the junction of the Ventura River and the Santa Clara River created a natural very fertile land which, together with the sunny weather, it is very suitable for the cultivation of tropical fruit. To market and sell its products the farmers founded the 'Sunkist Growers' which is famous for its fruit and juices all over the world. In Germany as a kid we pronounced it wrong, more like 'soon' than 'sun'. Strangely the 'kist' is obviously a German word for 'box', a reference either to the form of their juice packing or the boxes in which the fruits (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, tangerines & tangelos, mandarins) are handled and stored.

Despite all it’s development Ventura still has not more than 100.000 residents and preserved it’s charm of a small town with some noticeable prosperity.

Ventura Pier

I rode along Harbor Road into a small harbor with beautiful lined boats. On the waterfront were some anglers and fishermen waiting for the catch of the day. Beside the long into the ocean reaching Ventura Pier were some surfers despite the cold weather still in the water. As I could see all of them wore surfer suits made of neoprene to protect themselves from the cold. I discovered a family wearing thick white Norwegian pullovers or sweaters as they walked on the beach into the sunset.

Walking into the Sunset

The road led me to a railroad crossing, the signal of the lowering gate let me brake my bike. The first and only time I had to wait for a yellow freight train which moved very slowly with seemingly uncountable wagons pulling passed me and the many other cars waiting. After very slow 5 minutes the gates were opened and we could finally move on.

I rode into town and tried to find out the Emma Wood State Beach. On the left side on a good road I discovered a sign showing the way to a private campground. As the sun was setting I wanted at least, like yesterday, ask for the price. Again, I was shocked to hear the price of US$45.00! I thanked from my heart but preferred to continued to the State Park. Unfortunately a large gate block closed the road and therefore I was prompted to look for another 'wild' campsite for the night. I returned to the town center with one eye on the road and the other searching for a suitable place in the approaching night.

The road led me onto a steep hill, the houses became fewer and fewer. In the already dark night I found a nice place beside an oilfield with constantly moving pumps. I unpacked my sleeping bag and zipped myself inside. Sometimes I heard lonely cars passing by but the sound of the working pumps rocked me into a wonderful sleep.

"If there wasn't anything to find out, it would be dull. Even trying to find out and not finding out is just as interesting as trying to find out and finding out; and I don't know but more so." Eve's Diary by Mark Twain

(to be continued)