Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 8

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 8

After a good night sleep I woke up at 7:00 in the morning. I’ve heard in Japan you are allowed to camp in every park but have to leave before the same time.

I took some photos and started to pack. I think it’s a kind of manner to clean up but also as a gesture of respect to the place which let me rest…
 

my place of the night

Yesterday I have seen a Giant dealer not far away. Each pedal stroke produced some cracking noise; I was not sure if it came from my bottom bracket or my chain. To make sure I thought I should visit a bike shop.  But like yesterday it was closed. As I could not find a sign for opening hours I just lived with the sound while pedaling for the rest of the day.

Not far from my camp is the Hsinchu Fish Harbor (新竹漁港) or Nanliao Harbor (南寮漁港) as it is known to locals. As with most fish harbors the fish and seafood is sold to consumers but it serves also as a wholesaler to businesses. In the early morning there were no humans but stray dogs to be seen.

I don’t know why but a harbor full of ships with the ocean in the background gives me a sense of freedom; unlimited thoughts fly to the horizons far away. In German there is the phrase ‘Leinen los’ which I would translate into ‘unloose the rope’ which refers to the rope which fixes the ship onto the dock. 
 

Peace I (Jesus) leave with you; My peace I give to you.

Not as the world gives do I give to you.

Let not your heart be troubled, nor let it fear. (John 14:27)

Hsinchu Fish Harbor (新竹漁港)

After some photos for my smart-phone and my mind I hit the road again.

Yesterday I had a great wind pushing me to the south. Unless the wind changes it would be unwise to ride the same road back home. Furthermore I had to take the road on the side of the mountains and could sparsely see the Taiwan Strait. Therefore I’ve decide to take another cross-country route back home.

I cycled back to the main street which led me to the ‘Ordinary Provincial Highway No. 15’. But I turned right to look for a breakfast. Unfortunately it was too early and so I turned back. I crossed yesterday’s Hsinchu Port Big Bridge (竹港大橋) but after the Fengshan Creek Bridge (鳳山溪橋) left for Zhubei City or 竹北市. From here the flat roads were gone, the road become a big up and down as expected in a hilly environment.
 

The agricultural aspect of Zhubei has shifted from mainly rice paddy farming to more floral and fruit cultivation that attracts tourists; however the majority of the local economy is now fueled by the semiconductor industry, real estate speculation and the service sector. Parts of Zhubei City have retained their traditional infrastructure following the demolition of the old city. There are also industrial parks in the city, which are the Hsinchu Biomedical Science Park and the Tai Yuen Hi-Tech Industrial Park (Wikipedia).

Even with the beautiful and traditional views of the countryside I would not overhear my stomach calling for breakfast. I found a McDonald’s which offers Western breakfast in a clean environment. I parked my bike unlocked before the big window where I could see my bike. First I was interested to secure a place with an electric outlet to charge my phone. After claiming the seat by placing my helmet on the table I ordered. Back to the seat I charged my phone while enjoying a great breakfast.

There were only a few customers in the restaurant, few locals but many mostly female Philippine workers. As strange it may seem but even Taiwanese companies or families take advantage of the cheaper workforce from Southeast Asia. Many factory and service workers but also housekeepers and caretakers come from the Philippines to earn the harder Taiwan currency which they send back to support their families back home.

The toilets in this McDonalds were very clean; I washed my face, brushed my teeth and made my business there. 
After finishing I’ve discovered a hardware supermarket and went inside. As mentioned I could not locate if the cracking sound came from the bottom bracket or the chain so I bought a spray lubricant for my chain (NT$130=USD4.45) and a replacement of my frame pump (NT$199=USD6.79) which I forgot after my inner tube replacement yesterday. Both I took home and still use…

After spaying the lube the condition of the ride quality did not change. At least I’ve figured out that the reason must be the bottom bracket itself. I could not repair it on the road so I continued and lived with the sound for the rest of the day. 

emptied fruit stall beside the road

(to be continued)

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 7

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 7

Riding closer to Hsinchu (新竹), my final destination, I had to cross the Fengshan Creek Bridge (鳳山溪橋) which is obviously built over the Fengshan Creek (鳳山溪) and the Hsinchu Port Big Bridge (竹港大橋) which crosses the Touqian Creek (頭前溪). Both bridges are located right where the creeks flow into the Taiwan Strait but unfortunately in the night there was not a lot to see.

It was very helpful that not many cars and trucks were on the road. I can only imagine how difficult it will be to ride on these multi-lane bridges during rush hour with the strong wind from the sea.

Talking about the wind I have to note that the west coast of Taiwan has several windmills to produce environmentally friendly energy. The most famous products of Hsinchu are the rice noodles which are mostly produced by the Hakka, a group within the Han Chinese who are not united by a location but by their Hakka language. They have also a distinguished culture from other Han Chinese groups. Rice noodles need to be dried after production and before packing; therefore the wind plays an important part producing them...

windmill on the west coast of Taiwan

After passing the Hsinchu City limits I was looking for a place to camp for the night. Stealth camping would be an overrated word as most Taiwanese are friendly to Tourist. On the contrary, when you try to hide this only creates suspicion by the locals.

That evening I was very happy that I found a totally empty park, with residents, in case of emergency, just across the street. I did neither bring my tent nor a sleeping pad; I just took out my sleeping bag and put it on the soft uncut grass. When I work with my equipment or clothes I try to stay on top of everything by being tidy. I pack my things before sleeping, I even put my cycling shoes in the waterproof bag to avoid moisture which could blow over with the wind from he nearby Taiwan Strait.

 

my camp for the night

In windy areas there are no mosquitoes, a common Taiwan enemy during summer time. Once I called them in a joke the ‘national birds’ of Taiwan…

The night supposed to be quiet. But it seemed that I camped between two temples which made a war on ‘bad spirits’ and between each other by using a lot of firecrackers and fireworks for a long time during this night.

The earliest documentation of fireworks dates back to 7th century medieval Chinese Tang Dynasty, where they were invented. The fireworks were used to accompany many festivities. It is thus a part of the culture of China and had its origin there; eventually it spread to other cultures and societies. The art and science of firework making has developed into an independent profession. Chinese people originally believed that the fireworks could expel evil spirits and bring about luck and happiness (wikipedia).  

adventure right in front of your door

It is strange how simple it is to be happy and satisfied at the same time. Most people have a bike at home and when you add a rough plan, a map, some basic equipment and a good mood the adventure can right start in front of your door. On this evening I also had a sense of achievement even if 85 km does not seem a long journey.

With my wife and daughter in my mind I fell asleep…

 

(to be continued)

 

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 6

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)
2018/02/17-18, Part 6

To be closer to the sunset I took the next exit and rode a small path through a small forest. The shore was right in front of me and I took out the camera. There were still many families riding four wheeled bikes on a road beside the shore, some bike riders. I’ve seen some food stalls serving the hungry visitors. While preparing for the photos I noticed other smart-phones beside of me. The weather was still kind of warm from the sun during the day, some people walked into the sunset on the beach.

Sunset in Taiwan

As I wanted to continue I’ve notice my front tire was flat. Something was in the way on the road through the woods I suppose…I have experiences in changing flats and the obvious reasons are my 700 x 25c Continental Ultra Race folding tires ‘made in Thailand’. Here in Taiwan they are priced reasonably but they wear down too fast and seemingly have no protection at all. In 9 months I’ve ridden through two rear tires and one front tire. I change them only after the threat was seen… During this time I've stocked on my cold patch supplies because I had at least 10 punctures, my record was 2 punctures a day!  I will post a review of these tires later…It would be no secret that these will be my last 'cheap' Continental road tires; I've already prepared a Japanese brand tire 'made in Japan' to replace them... 

my 2nd worn down Continental Ultra Race folding rear road tire

I carry all the time two inner tubes as a spare, the tire levers and tools for removing the rear tire are also in my front bag. I’ve change the tube within a few minutes, the dirty hands I washed with my water bottle.

While busy with the bike the sun did not wait for me. Continuing my trip I stopped for the last pictures of this nice sunset after many days of rain.

As I packed my camera after the last shot I had to turn on my lights because it was already getting dark. There are road lights even on this coastal road which led me to the main road. In the night there is obviously not much to be seen so I took my time to have a dinner at a 7-11 I found on the left side of the road. The convenient chain store is found everywhere in Taiwan, contrary to my experience in the USA the employees in Taiwan are friendly and competent; the service does not stop at food & drinks. Many are equipped with public toilets, you can send and receive goods thru their own express service and from a terminal you can copy, buy tickets and even check on your parking tickets etc. 7-11s are a great and convenient place for tourists in Taiwan.

I’ve parked my bike unlocked in front of a window and ordered some pasta like the professionals have for breakfast. I also filled up my empty water bottles, one with water and one with a sports drink. 

The road went downhill under a tunnel-like construction and I could ride make up some time. While the road become flat I already searched for a nice place to stay overnight...

my 'flying' touring bike from the top

(to be continued)

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 5

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 5

   I believe John F. Kennedy, 35th President of the United States was right when he said that "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." I would add 'sense of achievement' to his words. While in a car or on the motorcycle the engine carries you from one point to another but the movement of a bike depends solely on the rider him- or herself. The engines of a car and a bike, the rider, need both fuel as energy. While a car needs a gas stations we riders need food and drinks and don't pollute the air. The bike is clearly the cleanest and most efficient form of transportation known to mankind. 

   Riding along the Taiwan Strait in this state of mind it seemed that all problems have gone, and beside the road condition there is really nothing to worry about.  



My old converted mountain bike

   Taiwan might for someone be a little rough but in my experience it is a very safe place. Ten years ago while there was no ‘bike awareness’ and therefore no ‘official’ bike route around  Taiwan I already rode around this tobacco leaf shaped island. At that time I converted a Mountain Bike into a touring bike with two panniers mounted on a rear carrier and a fixed bag mounted on my handlebar. It was much heavier and slower than my current bike but the excitement and simple pleasure of bike riding was the same…

   An inseparable part of all of my bike adventures is not sleeping in a hotel or a hostel but on a nice quiet and natural place in my sleeping bag not far from the road. Even the Taiwanese think this way of staying overnight is dangerous but I’ve never experienced any problems, may they be human or natural causes.

   Taiwanese are basically very friendly and helpful to tourists. Once in Taidong, the eastern part of Taiwan, I went straight into the mayor’s office of a small town and asked if I could stay overnight on the terrace made of wood. They not only agreed but after I pitching up my tent a workers returned with her child on a motor-scooter and asked me ‘If I need help’ or if they ‘could buy anything for me.’ 

   Many bike tourists stare on their GPS and monitor their activities on the smart-phone while riding. I try to absorb the nature, the view and the things beside the road. I don’t give me any time frame therefore I have the time to compose my photos and can react to new experiences.
Beside the road there is a blue sign of the Taoyuan Seashore Bikeway with a simple map showing the tourist attractions along the road.

Taoyuan Seashore Bikeway Map

   Rushing bike travelers might not only miss this sign but also the Baishajia Lighthouse (白沙岬燈塔) which cannot easily be seen from the road.

Baishajia Lighthouse (白沙岬燈塔)

   The Baishajia Lighthouse is situated on the Guanyin coast, and it is the second tallest lighthouse in Taiwan. A circular pathway has been built around the lighthouse which can also be used to access the Guanyin beach recreational area. The white structure of the Baishajia Lighthouse is even more dazzling between the blue sky and the ocean. After it officially came into use in 1901, the lighthouse had already become a famous attraction Taiwan during the Japanese occupation era. A century later, in 2001, it was selected by the Council for Cultural Affairs as one of the "One Hundred Historic Sites in Taiwan". The main structure of the lighthouse, its surrounding walls, and the sundial from the Japanese era were chosen the following year as the first county level historical site of Taoyuan. It is currently the most well-preserved lighthouse from the early Japanese colonial period (Taoyuan Tourism).

   While having fun the time was flying. I suddenly realized that it was already late afternoon while there were some kilometers to ride. Crossing a bridge I've noticed the sun slowly descending into an ocean. While stopping to capture this moment I’ve decided to take some time and left the main road to ride as close as possible to the shore. 

(to be continued...)

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 4

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 4 

The Zhuwei Fishing Harbor (竹圍漁港) is made of two parts:

- the Zuwei Fishing Port (竹圍碼頭) with the actual fishing boats and the fish market with restaurants

- the Zuwei Fishing Harbor (竹圍漁港) which serves as a repair dock for Taiwan fishing vessels and ships.

   Beside this 2nd part is the Zhuwei Fishing Playground for Children or 竹圍漁港公共兒童遊戲場  located in a park with a big parking lot right in front of it. The park was lined, as everyone can imagine, with bustling stalls for the Chinese New Year. I rode between the many families and found a sport where I could take a picture of a ship sitting on a dock to be repaired (or dismantled?).  

   Leaving the park I’ve discovered a one-man coffee stall. As a coffee lover I could not resist and bought hand brewed coffee for NT$40.00 (US$1.40). As mentioned in my first block I carried two water bottles on my bike: one made of plastic and one stainless steel thermos bottle. Now this bottle came in very handy. I gave the brewer my empty bottle which he filled with 'American black Coffee'. In this way I could keep the coffee hot, could ride & drink whenever there was an interesting place and enjoy. And I've saved one paper cup with plastic lid...

  The Coffee Brewer

After hitting the main road and rode for a while it came to my mind that I could leave the road and ride a little closer beside the coast. I followed a narrow path and came to an interesting and somehow strangely neglected road. The way led me to three signs saying, 
- “Warning, keep out of water”
- “No littering”
- “The road is served as the emergency flood barrier road. For flood protection, emergency access and maintenance use only. You are responsible for your own safety for trespassing”, which should make me very suspicious... 

“The road is served as the emergency flood barrier road."

   I did not give many thoughts to these warnings and continued. Soon the road became a track with big cobble-like stones but somehow I did not want to turn around. To save my road bike with its narrow 25mm tires and the heavy equipment I got off the bike and partly walked and slipped with my clip-less road shoes over the small rocks. The ‘road’ became very solitaire, a lot of garbage with many plastic bags lined the road. I could see much waste from factories like shoe parts but also old tires etc.

Road for the lost

   Now I ran into some strange low constructions hidden half in sand. By further inspection I found that the rear had some stairs leading in these round buildings with an embrasure in the front. But why were they here? I suppose they are relics of the 'cold war' between China and Taiwan, their purpose could be watching and guarding the Taiwan coastal line and fighting off the enemy in case of an attack. I think they are too small be called bunkers...

Taiwan defense?

   I walked so for several minutes which turned into nearly one hour with no end in sight. So I thought I will leave this rocky road and crossed some sandy hill to find an alternative way out. It was in vain so I had to continue. Some time later I discovered civilization in the form of a truck which was obviously parked there for the Chinese New Year holidays. Not far away from it I could finally ride on a country road again. The fisher beside a river could not imagine how relieved I was to see him after this 1 1/2 hours long odyssey. But I booked it as an important part of my 'adventure experience' of this ride.

Fisher waiting for the 'bit bite' 

(to be continued)