Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 11, final part

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 11

My new bike pal and me did not ride into the center of Yingge (鶯歌) but took the dangerous Sanxia Big Bridge (三峽大橋) over the previously mentioned Dahan River (大漢溪). It does not feel save because there is a wall at the right side of the two lanes, leaving no space to move or no room for errors for the bike rider. Additionally there are many speeding cars and trucks over this bridge, seemingly pushing the bikes against this wall. It takes some courage and cost some nerves to cross it even for an experienced rider.

Dahan River (大漢溪) near Shihmen Water Reservoir (石門水庫)

Fortunately there was not much traffic on this early sunny afternoon but just in the middle of the bridge fell my chain off the bike! It was a fix of a few seconds with the help of a plastic bag protecting my hands from the dirty and sticky chain lube.

In Sanxia (三峽) we rode to the famous Old Street (三峽老街); I wanted to invite my partner for some shaved ice. Arriving there I could not believe how many people used the Chinese New Year holidays to visit this street. Seeing that it was hopeless by bike to ride through the crowd my friend suggested another place. Unfortunately it was closed...

Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街)

After he explained the familiar way home we finally separated. I gave him my name card in case he wants to initiate another ride some times later. When getting in touch with Taiwanese or Chinese you should not push too hard and give the opposite person some time. I am still waiting for the call... 

From Sanxia (三峽) is a mountain road to Xindian (新店), my home for some 25 years. I know the road very well so I've decided to stop at a 7-11 and have an ice cream first. As I've asked the shop assistant for the ice box I noticed a customer sitting in front of the window eating strawberry soft ice cream. I've ordered on and enjoy the cool ice on this sunny afternoon.

strawberry soft ice cream

The mountain road was nearly empty and therefore made good progress. Not far away from my home I've noticed a flat on my front wheel but did not want to repair it. So, the final 1km I walked home...

mountain road between Sanxia (三峽) and Xindian (新店)

I arrived around 3:30 at home, a little exhausted but very happy and felt great about my personal achievement. Still in a good mood I opened my luggage and threw everything to wash (sleeping bag etc.) in the wash machine. I took of my sweaty clothes and took a good hot shower. The dirty clothes I threw into the machine and let it wash together with my other stuff.

Looking back on these two days I was thankful for every pedal stroke I could experience. From the exceptional weather, the friendly people I experienced, the breath-taking views and the very smooth riding. 

We are living in a great time with all the amenities our fathers only dreamed of (internet, smartphone, GPS, credit card etc.). For me we are living in unbelievable rich times and it is amazing why people are still longing for the old times by discrediting the freedom of speech and suppressing other opinions like their own build protective walls which already came down in Europe in the 1990s. 

While I write this there is a very clear return to protectionism and populism; the ideas of the 'old guards' (guarding what?) are on the rise. People are freely giving up democracy for their own short sighted benefits, willingly to give up this freedom which their own fathers fought and died for. Why? I don't know...

Riding in the USA 10 years ago I've told and American that ..."the USA is a great place." He answered: "You think so?" At that time the word 'fake news' was not even invented.

I thank God that he created the island of Taiwan. As God has given the land of Israel to Abraham I am sure He gave this land to the great Taiwanese people - with a purpose. 

"Look around from where you are, to the north and south, to the east and west. 15 All the land that you see I will give to you and your offspring (Genesis 13).

Unfortunately many people in Taiwan refuse to accept this island as there home, they have been hurt by the history, have lost their faith into the government! Bless Formosa, the beautiful island, to face their past and not to return back but move forward to find their own way of democracy.

Do not put your trust in prices, in human beings, who cannot save (Psalm 118). 

May everyone be blessed and have a save ride,

Gerhard

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 6

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)
2018/02/17-18, Part 6

To be closer to the sunset I took the next exit and rode a small path through a small forest. The shore was right in front of me and I took out the camera. There were still many families riding four wheeled bikes on a road beside the shore, some bike riders. I’ve seen some food stalls serving the hungry visitors. While preparing for the photos I noticed other smart-phones beside of me. The weather was still kind of warm from the sun during the day, some people walked into the sunset on the beach.

Sunset in Taiwan

As I wanted to continue I’ve notice my front tire was flat. Something was in the way on the road through the woods I suppose…I have experiences in changing flats and the obvious reasons are my 700 x 25c Continental Ultra Race folding tires ‘made in Thailand’. Here in Taiwan they are priced reasonably but they wear down too fast and seemingly have no protection at all. In 9 months I’ve ridden through two rear tires and one front tire. I change them only after the threat was seen… During this time I've stocked on my cold patch supplies because I had at least 10 punctures, my record was 2 punctures a day!  I will post a review of these tires later…It would be no secret that these will be my last 'cheap' Continental road tires; I've already prepared a Japanese brand tire 'made in Japan' to replace them... 

my 2nd worn down Continental Ultra Race folding rear road tire

I carry all the time two inner tubes as a spare, the tire levers and tools for removing the rear tire are also in my front bag. I’ve change the tube within a few minutes, the dirty hands I washed with my water bottle.

While busy with the bike the sun did not wait for me. Continuing my trip I stopped for the last pictures of this nice sunset after many days of rain.

As I packed my camera after the last shot I had to turn on my lights because it was already getting dark. There are road lights even on this coastal road which led me to the main road. In the night there is obviously not much to be seen so I took my time to have a dinner at a 7-11 I found on the left side of the road. The convenient chain store is found everywhere in Taiwan, contrary to my experience in the USA the employees in Taiwan are friendly and competent; the service does not stop at food & drinks. Many are equipped with public toilets, you can send and receive goods thru their own express service and from a terminal you can copy, buy tickets and even check on your parking tickets etc. 7-11s are a great and convenient place for tourists in Taiwan.

I’ve parked my bike unlocked in front of a window and ordered some pasta like the professionals have for breakfast. I also filled up my empty water bottles, one with water and one with a sports drink. 

The road went downhill under a tunnel-like construction and I could ride make up some time. While the road become flat I already searched for a nice place to stay overnight...

my 'flying' touring bike from the top

(to be continued)

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 5

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 5

   I believe John F. Kennedy, 35th President of the United States was right when he said that "Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride." I would add 'sense of achievement' to his words. While in a car or on the motorcycle the engine carries you from one point to another but the movement of a bike depends solely on the rider him- or herself. The engines of a car and a bike, the rider, need both fuel as energy. While a car needs a gas stations we riders need food and drinks and don't pollute the air. The bike is clearly the cleanest and most efficient form of transportation known to mankind. 

   Riding along the Taiwan Strait in this state of mind it seemed that all problems have gone, and beside the road condition there is really nothing to worry about.  



My old converted mountain bike

   Taiwan might for someone be a little rough but in my experience it is a very safe place. Ten years ago while there was no ‘bike awareness’ and therefore no ‘official’ bike route around  Taiwan I already rode around this tobacco leaf shaped island. At that time I converted a Mountain Bike into a touring bike with two panniers mounted on a rear carrier and a fixed bag mounted on my handlebar. It was much heavier and slower than my current bike but the excitement and simple pleasure of bike riding was the same…

   An inseparable part of all of my bike adventures is not sleeping in a hotel or a hostel but on a nice quiet and natural place in my sleeping bag not far from the road. Even the Taiwanese think this way of staying overnight is dangerous but I’ve never experienced any problems, may they be human or natural causes.

   Taiwanese are basically very friendly and helpful to tourists. Once in Taidong, the eastern part of Taiwan, I went straight into the mayor’s office of a small town and asked if I could stay overnight on the terrace made of wood. They not only agreed but after I pitching up my tent a workers returned with her child on a motor-scooter and asked me ‘If I need help’ or if they ‘could buy anything for me.’ 

   Many bike tourists stare on their GPS and monitor their activities on the smart-phone while riding. I try to absorb the nature, the view and the things beside the road. I don’t give me any time frame therefore I have the time to compose my photos and can react to new experiences.
Beside the road there is a blue sign of the Taoyuan Seashore Bikeway with a simple map showing the tourist attractions along the road.

Taoyuan Seashore Bikeway Map

   Rushing bike travelers might not only miss this sign but also the Baishajia Lighthouse (白沙岬燈塔) which cannot easily be seen from the road.

Baishajia Lighthouse (白沙岬燈塔)

   The Baishajia Lighthouse is situated on the Guanyin coast, and it is the second tallest lighthouse in Taiwan. A circular pathway has been built around the lighthouse which can also be used to access the Guanyin beach recreational area. The white structure of the Baishajia Lighthouse is even more dazzling between the blue sky and the ocean. After it officially came into use in 1901, the lighthouse had already become a famous attraction Taiwan during the Japanese occupation era. A century later, in 2001, it was selected by the Council for Cultural Affairs as one of the "One Hundred Historic Sites in Taiwan". The main structure of the lighthouse, its surrounding walls, and the sundial from the Japanese era were chosen the following year as the first county level historical site of Taoyuan. It is currently the most well-preserved lighthouse from the early Japanese colonial period (Taoyuan Tourism).

   While having fun the time was flying. I suddenly realized that it was already late afternoon while there were some kilometers to ride. Crossing a bridge I've noticed the sun slowly descending into an ocean. While stopping to capture this moment I’ve decided to take some time and left the main road to ride as close as possible to the shore. 

(to be continued...)

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹) , Part 1

Bike Trip from Xindian (新店) to Hsinchu (新竹)

2018/02/17-18, Part 1
 

During the holidays of the Chinese New Year I made a two day tour by bike from my home in Xindian (新店), in the Taipei suburbs, to Hsinchu (新竹) and back. 

Contrary to popular believe the Chinese New Year is a good time to spend in Taipei or ride bike because there are actually a few people on the road. Taipei is very deserted as most Taiwanese visit their families out of Taipei. The roads to Hsinchu (新竹) were very empty as even the notorious violent truck drivers enjoyed their holidays…

I did the bike tour by myself for several reasons:

a. My wife and daughter both are not into sports and do not ride bikes.

b. The tradition in Taiwan and China is that the children visit their parents. After my father-in-law passed away the family union was gone. Basically in my wife’s family I sense a kind of aversion from each member against this one foreigner from Germany so after many senseless arguments I have decided rather to keep my dignity than facing outright hostilities against my existence. It’s sad but I have to face the truth…
 
Preparation
 
For this trip I prepared two bags which I’ve fixed on my bike: a front bag and a rear bag.
- Front bag: wallet, smartphone & charger, basic bike tools (multi-tool, tire levers), two inner tubes, toothbrush and snacks
- Rear bag: sleeping bag, bike shorts, socks, tripod.
On the bike I have two water bottles:
- 1 plastic bottle because of the convenience and the lighter weight
- 1 thermos stainless bottle because it keeps hot/cold contents longer at its temperature but, more important, it keeps the contents fresher for a longer time.
I always carry a pocket pump in case of a flat which is mounted on the frame under the front bottle cage.

My bike in full travel gear in front of a roadside Graffiti 我的自行車在塗鴉前面

My bike in full travel gear in front of a roadside Graffiti

我的自行車在塗鴉前面

Road to Hsinchu

I started after a hearty breakfast at 9:00 in the morning. Much rain the weeks before the Chinese New Year holidays lead to a surprisingly sunny start of the day.

I rode to the Sunshine Sports Park (陽光運動公園) in Xindian (新店) and crossed the Sunshine Bridge (陽光橋) from which you have a wonderful view to the mountains in the direction of Wulai (烏來), a popular hot spring and aboriginal culture getaway from Taipei.

Right after the bridge starts the popular Bitan (碧潭)→Danshuei (淡水) bike path which is separated from the cars and motorcycles. It is a mainly flat and easy to path but might be overcrowded on weekends or holidays. As most people left Taipei for the holidays I was very lucky to among the few chosen.

On a nice spot I asked elderly gentlemen if he could take a picture of me and my bike. Talking to him he revealed that he plays saxophone for one year, up to 5 hours every day! During my time in Taiwan I met several saxophone players with similar stories…

Let’s go! (出發吧!)

I followed the bike path beside the Danshuei River (淡水河) up to the Guandu Nature Park from which the orange painted Guandu Big Bridge (關渡大橋) can be seen from far away. Here I’ve crossed the Danshuei River (淡水河) to follow the bike path on the other side of the shore to the town of Bali (八里) right across Danshuei (淡水).

Danshuei River (淡水河)

Coffee Shop beside the Danshuei River 

(咖啡店在淡水河旁)

 

Guandu Bridge (關渡大橋)

There is a boat from Bali (八里) to Danshuei (淡水) or vice versa but currently the sand or mud filled up of the waterbed let some boats stuck in the soil. This led to cancellation of most deep water boats and therefore had a great impact on the water traffic between these two tourist destinations.

In Bali (八里) were many people so I had to walk my bike through the crowds. But it was not before long that I headed to the Shihsanhang Museum (十三行博物館). It serves as an museum of northern Taiwan which does not only display original artifacts of an archaeological site but also serves as an educational center for prehistoric culture and the history of the Aborigines of Taiwan.

The 2nd part will follow soon...

Comments are welcome, have a great day!

Gerhard