Monday, May 21, 2018

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 31

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National ForestPfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   Returning from the waterfall to the main gate I found my bike still waiting for me, expecting me to continue the ride...

   Back on Highway 1 it got considerable more difficult. The steep road together with the strong headwinds let me get off my bike several time and push it through the spectacular scenery. But like the saying “what goes up must come down” later I experienced a breathtaking downhill ride through redwood forests which also had some conifers, oaks, sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows. The air became much cooler but also very fresh and had a distinguishable scent of needles from trees falling on rich soil.

   Highway 1 led me to the entrance of the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park. Occasionally I passed some house which actually indicated that Big Sur will be over soon. Still on the main road I discovered the Big Sur General Store which is “a Big Sur tradition, offering everything from camping supplies to a great selection of local wines, made-to-order pizzas and burrito bar. We’ll even make summer smoothie with fresh, local fruit.” There I bought my supplies for today’s dinner but also for tomorrow’s breakfast in case I got up so early that the store was still closed. For the location the prices seemed very reasonable to me.

   Leaving Highway 1 on the road to campground I cycled to the Big Sur Lodge which “long has been a haven for writers, artists, seekers of beauty, and weary travelers in search for peace and majesty that the ancient redwoods bestow on body and soul”. The compound includes the hotel and the lodges, but also a restaurant, espresso bar plus a gift shop and a general store.  

   I stopped there and roamed thru the shops open for the public. There have been also different maps and book on the shelf. I opened one book of a female artist from Big Sur with a foreword of the actor, director and producer Clint Eastwood, conveniently the former mayor (1986-1988) of Carmel-by-the-Sea, tomorrow’s stop.

   After I registered myself at the entrance the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park the ranger instructed me to ride to one of the nicest Hiker & Biker on my whole trip! After passing some RVs and a water station for the campers I built up my tent under one large redwood tree, the fallen needles gave me a soft but firm underground. The scent, as mentioned, is for me one of the most intriguing in the world and made me nearly high.

   After I settled myself I noticed a lonesome elderly man sitting on a table playing cards with himself (!). Out of politeness from camper to camper I walked over, sat down and he began to talk. As a 20 years old he reported for duty to the Vietnam war (Nov. 01, 1955-Apr. 04, 1975) and was part of a tank crew. After he returned from war he worked and lived in a restaurant as a cook. The restaurant was sold to an investor who brought in his home team; he lost his job and had to move out of the place he lived. Since then he is homeless and lives on the streets. As he has no permanent residence the government cannot send him the pensions as a war veteran. At the same time President George W. Bush is planning to cut these pensions for the servicemen. Therefore he supports the candidacy of Hillary Clinton because under her husband Bill Clinton ‘everything was better’.

   His goal was to move to Texas where a comrade-in-arms lives. The soldier turned pastor promised him that the homeless can live with him and give him a permanent address that he can receive his pension. Good luck!

   The whole story sounded very reasonable…But smelly and dirty he had obviously no money for a 25 Cents shower but he drank quality beer and had money for grass which he, as he put it, ‘wanted to dope himself for the night.’ The same spirited comrade joined us, ‘a tramper’ how he introduced himself. The soldier collected fire wood even there are many signs that this is not allowed because of 'fire hazards' but he made a big fire with high flames anyway. To my question ‘is this allowed in a State Park?’ he answered that he "cleans up the wood of the forest and prevent the forest from burning!"

   Finally I looked for a reason to leave both of them. Honestly I have experiences with a drunken and out of control father but no experience with drug users whatsoever. But I know that people can do terrible things when they are high and out of control. For my own and my equipment’s safety I locked my bike very tightly on the tree, my whole luggage I stuffed in my one man tent with one bag serving as a pillow and the other as a pad under my legs and was surprised how good I slept.

   Only once I woke up from the monotone sound of falling raindrops but I did not want to peel myself out of my small tent so I just kept on sleeping.



(to be continued)

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