Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007
Intimate Big Sur
Los Padres National Forest→Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km
Returning from
the waterfall to the main gate I found my bike still waiting for me, expecting
me to continue the ride...
(to be continued)
Back on Highway 1 it got considerable more
difficult. The steep road together with the strong headwinds let me get off my
bike several time and push it through the spectacular scenery. But like the
saying “what
goes up must come down” later I experienced a breathtaking downhill ride
through redwood forests which also had some conifers, oaks,
sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows. The air became much
cooler but also very fresh and had a distinguishable scent of needles from
trees falling on rich soil.
Highway 1 led me to the entrance of the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park. Occasionally I passed some house which
actually indicated that Big Sur will be over soon. Still on the main road I
discovered the Big Sur General Store which is “a Big Sur
tradition, offering everything from camping supplies to a great selection of
local wines, made-to-order pizzas and burrito bar. We’ll even make summer
smoothie with fresh, local fruit.” There I
bought my supplies for today’s dinner but also for tomorrow’s breakfast in case
I got up so early that the store was still closed. For the location the prices
seemed very reasonable to me.
Leaving Highway 1 on the road to campground
I cycled to the Big Sur Lodge which “long has been a haven for writers,
artists, seekers of beauty, and weary travelers in search for peace and majesty
that the ancient redwoods bestow on body and soul”. The compound includes the
hotel and the lodges, but also a restaurant, espresso bar plus a gift shop and
a general store.
I stopped there and roamed thru the shops
open for the public. There have been also different maps and book on the shelf.
I opened one book of a female artist from Big Sur with a foreword of the actor,
director and producer Clint Eastwood, conveniently the former mayor (1986-1988)
of Carmel-by-the-Sea, tomorrow’s stop.
After I registered myself at the entrance
the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park the ranger instructed me to ride to one of the
nicest Hiker & Biker on my whole trip! After passing some RVs and a water
station for the campers I built up my tent under one large redwood tree, the
fallen needles gave me a soft but firm underground. The scent, as mentioned, is
for me one of the most intriguing in the world and made me nearly high.
After I settled myself I noticed a lonesome elderly man sitting on a table
playing cards with himself (!). Out of politeness from camper to camper I
walked over, sat down and he began to talk. As a 20 years old he reported for
duty to the Vietnam war (Nov. 01, 1955-Apr. 04, 1975) and was part of a tank
crew. After he returned from war he worked and lived in a restaurant as a cook.
The restaurant was sold to an investor who brought in his home team; he lost
his job and had to move out of the place he lived. Since then he is homeless
and lives on the streets. As he has no permanent residence the government
cannot send him the pensions as a war veteran. At the same time President
George W. Bush is planning to cut these pensions for the servicemen. Therefore
he supports the candidacy of Hillary Clinton because under her husband Bill
Clinton ‘everything was better’.
His goal was to move to Texas where a comrade-in-arms lives. The soldier turned
pastor promised him that the homeless can live with him and give him a
permanent address that he can receive his pension. Good luck!
The whole story sounded very reasonable…But smelly and dirty he had obviously
no money for a 25 Cents shower but he drank quality beer and had money for
grass which he, as he put it, ‘wanted to dope himself for the night.’ The same
spirited comrade joined us, ‘a tramper’ how he introduced himself. The soldier
collected fire wood even there are many signs that this is not allowed because
of 'fire hazards' but he made a big fire with high flames anyway. To my
question ‘is this allowed in a State Park?’ he answered that he "cleans up
the wood of the forest and prevent the forest from burning!"
Finally I looked for a reason to leave both of them. Honestly I have
experiences with a drunken and out of control father but no experience with
drug users whatsoever. But I know that people can do terrible things when they
are high and out of control. For my own and my equipment’s safety I locked my
bike very tightly on the tree, my whole luggage I stuffed in my one man tent
with one bag serving as a pillow and the other as a pad under my legs and was
surprised how good I slept.
Only once I woke up from the monotone sound of falling raindrops but I did not
want to peel myself out of my small tent so I just kept on sleeping.
(to be continued)
No comments:
Post a Comment