Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 18

Saturday, Sep. 15, 2007

A Step Back into History

Vandenberg AFB→Oceano Dunes

Distance: 150.6km, Total: 475.82 km

As I wanted to leave this historical place on the end of Main Street I met three elderly bikers, one lady and two gentlemen. They have been well over 60 years old and came riding all the way from Portland (Oregon) along Highway 1. Excited they shared their experiences of a strong wind blowing from the north to the south which let them cycle effortless yesterday. I, on the other side, told them about yesterday’s strong headwind which left me nearly in despair of giving up on my ride! Finishing my part of the story with a funny face we all had a good laugh!

After this short detour to Los Alamos I rode back to the Cabrillo Highway 135 which later joined the Highway 1. 

Cattle grazing beside the Cabrillo Highway 135

At lunch time I arrived at Santa Maria and stopped at the first fast food restaurant which came in sight. I noticed a motorcycle in leathers eating there with tons of equipment (computer, GPS etc.) and thought to myself that I am a lucky kind of guy travelling with only few equipment...

As I returned to my unlocked bike I noticed 4 mexican kids standing around my bike. One of them had a scateboard under his arm and started to ask :“Where do you come from?“

“Where do you come from?“

“And you rode the whole way from Germany on your bike?“ he asked with an open mouth.

“No, of course not! There is a big ocean between the USA and Germany.“ I answered truly.

“Where do you want to ride to?“

“To San Francisco.“

“You can ride there on a bike?“ he asked skeptical.

“Oh, you can do that!“

I should ride down his address and maybe sent him a postcard...

   The Santa Maria Valley, stretching from the Santa Lucia Mountains towards the Pacific Ocean, was the homeland of the Chumash Indians for several thousand years. In the late 19th century, after California gained statehood in 1850, the area's rich soil attracted farmers and other settlers. By the end of the century, the Santa Maria River Valley had become one of the most productive agricultural areas in the state. Agriculture is still a key component of the economy for the city and the entire region. Its estimated 2016 population was 106,290, making it the most populous city in the county and the Santa Maria-Santa Barbara, CA Metro Area (wikipedia).

Santa Maria City Hall

Actually my next stop should be Guadelupe, a very small city still located in Santa Barbara County. But the continuous headwind became too strong that I finally gave up. After a consultation with my tour guide I decided to ride into the city of Oceano. In the Pismo State Park I could surely stay overnight.

A Racetrack beside the Road

With a little help from my friend Tom!

But as I arrived at the main gate of the Pismo State Park an elderly lady told me that the Hiker & Biker campground was full. In the Far East I’ve learned not to take a ‘no’ for a ‘no’ but my talking was in vain. I asked at the nearby private campgrounds but they either were too expensive or already full! 
Someone gave me the tip to try it at the Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area so it's official name. This is one of the few sand beaches in the USA on which actually 4x4s and motorcycles are legally allowed to drive or ride and can camp overnight on the beach. Strangely tourists from all over the USA are 'attracted' to trample with their vehicles on mother nature.

I asked a young female in the wooden hut beside the entrance if I could stay on the beach overnight but she negated with the reason that “you ride a bicycle but riding and driving on the beach is only allowed for motorcycles and cars!“ I found this reason very curious but obviously had to accept.

I already prepared myself for another wild camp beside the road as an elderly gentleman approached me. He introduced himself as Tom, an already retired developer from the Hewlett Packard computer company. He coincidentally listened to my conversation with the young lady at the entrance of the Oceano Dunes and promised to help me.

Tom knew that there is actually a 2nd Pismo State Beach and he would like to try it there  his luck for me. My new acquaintance jumped immediately on his bike and flew away; I had trouble keeping up with him. After a few minutes we stood beside another wooden hut and he asked an elderly lady if there was no possibility to camp here for the night. This third lady denied again but she advised us to talk to the Ranger standing beside his pick-up with a big ‘California State Park’ sticker on his door not far away.

Tom did as the lady told him and said to the Ranger: “This is my German friend and he needs a camp for the night!” The Ranger took his radio and advised the young girl who refused my entrance to the beach just a few minutes before with short but magical words: “I send a German bicycle rider over to you and you let him camp on the beach for the night, is this understood?” A very quiet voice answered “Yes, sir!” Wow!

I thanked this young man very much, maybe he heard that that very heavy stone falling right from my heart. He only handed me his business card and said “If you should have any problems you are welcome to call me any time!”

I still do not understand why both State Beaches (Pismo 1 and Pismo 2) had not place for me, the lonesome rider. Later I heard from some fellow bike riders that problems with  the homeless (alcohol and drugs) let the State Park administration decide to close the Biker & Hiker there. It’s a pity but absolutely understandable.

(to be continued)