Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 36

Friday, Sep. 21., 2007

Beautiful Sunrise in Monterey

Monterey→?

Distance: 118:30 km, Time: 7:34:14 Std., Total: 1,154.30 km

   While some fishing boats chugged along the coast not far away were some sailboats and yachts of the rich and famous peacefully in the water.

   
   Walking along the water and the coast itself look more like a large natural reserve, nearly every rock was occupied with birds of different kinds and the previously mentioned seals.
   I continued to the in Spanish Colonial style built Old Customhouse by the Mexican government around 1827. The Customhouse was the state’s first designated California Historical Landmark, marking the site where the U.S. Commodore John Drake Sloat (1781-1867) raised the American flag and declared California part of the United States in 1846. While I took a picture from the building a homeless slept in front of this historical building. 

   My stomach started to mumble after the long and extensive walk but more from the fresh air, therefore I decided to turn back to the Hostel. In the kitchen I ran into a group of retired British elderly ladies. Talking to them they had nothing but travel in their minds, next year they want to visit Australia. As they were making pancakes they invited me to join them for the breakfast.
   Back into the room I met John who came here for the famous Monterey Jazz Festival which will happen new weekend (Sep. 21 -23). Of course he shared his excitement and talked at lengthy about the music event. Even I had no idea what he was talking about I occasionally joined the one way conversation. I think it is polite to listen to others even it is not absolutely my own taste.

   Slowly I started to pack my things, as a base I used my bed. From the window I could see two of three homeless who were arrested by police officers yesterday. Finally I had to say farewell to my room, took the sheet, blanket and pillow covers off and threw them in the prepared box beside the reception.
   Both hands full of bags I passed the homeless on the way to the bike box. One of them noted that “you have a lot to carry!” After packing my bike I rode to the main entrance, parked my bike beside the door and went in. I checked out and received yesterday’s deposit for the bike box of US$2.00 without any objections.
   Monterey was for me a clear highlight of the whole trip. To learn more about this friendly city I would like to stay longer, maybe an idea for my next trip?
   I rode the same road I walked in the morning and just followed the road beside the coast with occasionally some beaches.  On one I’ve discovered a long line of homeless which I’ve seen in my life. Volunteer gave them free breakfast and coffee. It is nice that private citizens do this but where is the government? I’ve discovered some ‘clean’ people in the line who got served the same like the homeless but paid for their food and coffee.
   I continued on the bike path direction north, the ocean on the right.  My bike rode into an industrial area; there I’ve discovered some interesting car dealerships and repair shops. In front of one of them I stopped because I discovered a baby blue Volkswagen beetle. As an ex-trainee of a Volkswagen/Audi/Porsche  dealership in Germany the ‘WE DO’ WORK ON VOLKSWAGEN AIR COOLED’ lettering should absolutely on the photo.

(to be continued) 

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 35

Friday, Sep. 21., 2007

Beautiful Sunrise in Monterey

Monterey→?

Distance: 118:30 km, Time: 7:34:14 Std., Total:   1,154.30 km

   When I already woke up at 6:00 in the morning the sun was still sleeping. Not to wake up my roommates I took carefully my camera and locked the door very quietly.

   This early I wanted to check the Cannery Row, the renovated and closely built sardine cannery factories which are lined along the coastline. I wanted to visit the still active fisherman’s wharf and walk until the historical Custom House.

   Chinese fishermen came with their families on junks over the Pacific Ocean and established the fishing industry in Monterey during 1850s. Because the markets for fresh fish were far away they dried the fish in the same way as it was custom at home.

   With the opening of Booth Cannery and the Monterey Fishing & Canning Co., a Japanese-American joint venture, fresh fish could be processed on the spot and conserved in 1902. The demand especially after the American anticipation during the 1st World War (1916-1918) was very high and drew other companies into the area. Because of the rich fishing grounds and industry Monterey was called the “Sardine Capital of the world”.

   To stimulate the economy during the Great Depression (1929-1939) the U.S. government allowed the processing of sardines into fishmeal and fertilizers.

   Joining the 2nd World War (1941-1945) the demand and with it the fishing of sardines was increased to a new level. As a consequence of this overfishing died of lack of fish supply the whole fishing industry of Monterey within the next 5 years. Already in 1945   John Steinbeck immortalized his novel “Cannery Row” the different types of workers and made them famous over the borders of the USA.

   From the Hostel there are only a few steps, therefore I arrived at the 1927 built American Tin Cannery. Today the building, like all other former canneries, accommodates different kind of shops selling clothes, gifts, jewelers and delicatessen. The obligatory restaurants serving fresh seafood cannot be missed.

   Across the road beside the Recreation Trail is the 1984 opened Monterey Bay Aquarium (MBA), in which visitor can learn everything about the marine life. Per year 1.8 million visitors discover thousands of plants and animals represented by 623 named species. A high supply of fresh seawater directly from Monterey Bay guarantees the natural development. Unfortunately the doors were closed on this early morning; every adult should expect ticket prices of US$29.95/person (in 2007!)

   I passed the Monterey Plaza Hotel and only a few workers were busily cleaning up and preparing the place for the business of the day. In the yard I could discover a fountain with jumping dolphins over a wave and made a picture with the rising sun in the background.  

   As I walked I heard some seals barking. Maybe they searched for a breakfast or shared with their relatives the best hunting grounds (for sardines?). I don’t know… But as closer I came to the Fisherman’s Wharf as more of the seals I could actually see. They were either active in the water or were lazy lying on some rocks. 

   As the history of Montery is closely knitted with the fishing industry I absolutely wanted to see the Fisherman‘s Wharf. Everything is build on through water driven wooden stakes into the ground, on them were build the simple wooden houses and the gangplanks in between. The predominant fish and tourist shops were obviously closed and therefore a notable morning silence covered the whole scene. I walked until the end and stood there watching the bay. On the way I only met some elderly ladies talking their morning stroll. I stood at the edge of the water and let it all come in me.

   I discovered a statue with which the city honors the fishermen working so hard to build  the foundation the city. I think it’s a great gesture by which the rich and famous recognize the work of the people who actually created the wealth of Monterey with their bare hands!

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 34

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Back to Humans

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey
Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1.036 km

  I asked an elderly lady walking her dog where I could find the Hostel. She was very kind and showed me with her forefinger the direction. At exactly 4:00 in the afternoon I rang the bell of the closed door, and a sleepy hostel warden opened the door. He explained me that I have to came back at 5:00, they are still closed. I wanted to wait this one hour.

   Through the door I stepped into an oasis of silence, it was very quiet. The lounge looked like a large living room with thick English leather club armchairs and sofas; the many books in the shelves invite the guests to linger longer than intended. The only drops of bitterness came in the form of wooden boxes in which you had to drop coins to connect to the internet. To the defense of the hostel I want to add that I listened to the owner and some employees that they planned to upgrade the equipment.
   Stepping into the room I realized that this was my first bed after my departure from Los Angeles two weeks (!) ago. The room had several bunker beds but as the first in the room I chose a single bed beside the window. It had white bed linen and a white pillow cover with a white blanket and looked very clean to me. I could control the air flow of the window from my bed in case it got to hot. I had my own plug socket where I could load my batteries of the camera.

   But the best of the whole hostel experience was a big lockable bike box behind the building with enough additional space for my bags and my camping gear. I had to put down a deposit of US$ 2.00 which was refunded to me the next morning without problems.

   After I had settled I wanted to wash my clothes. Not far away from the hostel I found a DIY laundry. As one cycle takes 20 minutes I crossed the road and went into a supermarket to buy some supplies. As I returned to the laundry I notice a strong young white man through the glass door who piled up orderly coins on one of the washing mashine. I passed him and had to wait for some minutes until the spin cycle was completes.

   After me a Mexican young man stepped into the laundry. His clothes were washed, with one hand he sorted his clothes, with the other he talked Spanish into the cell phone. Suddenly the young man bad-mouthed him with very dirty words. I immediately noticed that he was mentally disabled and decided to walk with a smile towards the young Mexican  in support. I told him that he should not take this seriously. The Mexican smiled and left the laundry.

   The young white man opened the still running (!) washing machine and took the very wet clothes out of it, changing the floor into a swimming pool. As the only other person in the laundry I had to step in and advised him with a very authoritative voice to “put the wet clothes back in the machine until it is finished!” To my surprise he followed my strong voice, actually bit himself into his forefinger (!), kicked several times (!) against the running washing machine and finally ran out of the laundry with the words “I am in a bad mood, I am in a bad mood!” I was alone now, packed my things and went back to the hostel.

   Back into my room I could observe two police officers arresting three homeless. Behind the hostel there are several empty chairs and tables for tourists but have been seized by the homeless. They have been drunk and bawled so disturbing that one of the neighbors made a report. One cop had leather gloves and asked for their identity, of course they did not have any. The other cop put disposable handcuffs on all three of them while in the police car a German Shepherd barked. Five people, two policemen, three homeless and one barking dog drove away. Tomorrow morning I would run into two of the homeless on my way to the bike box sitting on the same chairs.

   I've met two young British men who rented a car and discovered California with it. We had a lot to exchange...Before I went to sleep a 10:30 I still checked my charger. 

  I had a nice sleep and woke up to open the window in the middle of the night. Maybe I still longed for the lonely nights in Big Sur...Sweet dreams accompanied me thru the night.

http://www.montereyhostel.org/

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 33

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Back to Humans

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey

Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1.036 km

   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent location”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).

Bixby Bridge (early morning), wikipedia

   With the bridge (built from Aug 24, 1931 to Oct. 15, 1932) started the tourism in Big Sur from the north; for me the construction was, coming from the south, the end of this part of my trip. Especially living in hectic and bustling Taiwan I often think about these few days in quiet nature only disturbed occasionally by noisy people. I wish often that I had a place like this to retire from my busy daily life…

   With some sad thoughts I continued on Highway one and arrived at 11:00 at the city limits of Carmel-by-the-Sea. I turned right into an industrial area and found a branch of the Bank of America. My dollars were running low so I tried to cash in some of my American Express traveler's cheques. Except that had to explain the bank employee that in Europe we have only a European passport and that I had to show her the country name Germany in the passport it went surprisingly smooth. At that time (2007!) there was no credit card from which I could withdraw US dollars in cash so I prepared travellers cheques in advance.

   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).

    Back on Highway 1 rode on a beltway crossing the steepest mountain on my whole trip which nearly overcame me. On the top I got off my bike to cross the very busy street and cycled into town. Carmel-by-the-Sea, or short Carmel, was founded in 1902.

   In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake the village was inundated with musicians, writers, painters and other artists turning to the establishing artist colony after the bay city was destroyed. The new residents were offered home lots – ten dollars down, little or no interest, and whatever they could pay on a monthly basis.

   Already in 1910 it was reported that 60% off all houses were inhabited with citizens who dedicated “their life to work and aesthetic art”. Maybe because of this background the actor Clint Eastwood was mayor from 1986-1988 in this town with a population of 4.000 citizens.

   In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake the village was inundated with musicians, writers, painters and other artists turning to the establishing artist colony after the Bay City was destroyed. The new residents were offered home lots – ten dollars down, little or no interest, and whatever they could pay on a monthly basis (wikipedia). Already In 1910 it was reported that 60% off all houses were inhabited with citizens who dedicated “their life to work and aesthetic art”. 

   Maybe because of this background the actor Clint Eastwood was mayor from 1986-1988 in this small town with a population of only 4.000 citizens.

   I cycled to a very clean living area and directly to the shopping center of the town. Here there are many famous brand offered in a relative small town and, around noon, all parking lots were occupied.

   Through a forested district I came finally to the beach of Carmel. In contrast to other beaches is was rather empty, even in the water was no one. I could only discover a young beach boy sitting in his opened door VW Bus Type 2, or Volkswagen Bulli, with loud Heavy Metal music. He did not use his surfboard, it leaned on his vehicle.

Carmel - San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission

   
   I continued to ride and discovered accidently the Carmel - San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission. Am June 03, 1770 Father Junipero dedicated a holy cross which should actually establish a 2nd Missionary Mission San Carlos Borromeo in Monterey. But the Spanish soldiers mistreated the Indians who saw the land of the mission as their own the Father moved on August 24, 1771 to Carmel. He worked here with his Indian friends until his death on August 28, 1784.

   Some readers might note that today I rode totally over the 1.000 km on American soil - a nice record for me. My purpose was not to make a bike race but to find the direction, time for photos, time for knowing people, time for relaxation. Sometimes the road is hard but more often it is easy and joyful. May the Lord continue to protect me and my equipment, may He let me have an interesting and great time...Thank you!  

(to be continued) 

  

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 32

Thursday, Sep. 20, 2007

Run for Life

Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park → Monterey

Distance: 97.56 km, Time: 7:11:52 Std., Total: 1036 km

   After crawling out of my tent some drops were still falling thru the early morning. It might sound strange but I tried to avoid the Vietnam veteran. I packed my small tent and sleeping bag into my duffel bag and all other things in their proper bags. During all the time I did not even once look at this guy.

   I am actually a socially active and open kind of person until today, while I am typing it. But I hate drugs and alcohol because as a child I was confronted with an alcoholic and out of control father for many, many years. 

   Therefore I packed my things as fast as I could and only wanted to leave this beautiful State Park as soon as possible. I unlocked my bike, fixed the luggage on it and nearly jumped on it. Just in this moment I passed the veteran on my bike as he tried to pick himself up from the drugs and sleeping under the open sky. He was sitting there with confused eyes and woolly hair, obviously still in ‘another world’. Passing him I pressed a “Good Morning” between my teeth and cycled like a madman out of the park. Today I am working with homeless in Taiwan but they have a sense of pride and respect for themselves which obviously cannot be found in this homeless in the 'promised land' of the USA.

   Outside of yesterday’s Big Sur General Store there is a public telephone from which I wanted to call my wife. On a sharp corner I fell down with my bike on the road which never happened before. My rear bag softened the crash and I escaped off this misfortune lightly. Only then I calmed down...I called my wife and daughter but I did not tell them them about this experience. They should enjoy my trip and not worry about me.

   I continued to cycle through a thick forest which belongs to the Andrew Molera State Park. This part of Big Sur is a relatively undeveloped state park, preserving land as requested by the former owner Frances Molera (wikipedia).

   Finally, I reached a treeless area looking more like a ranch, on the left I discovered an obvious empty farmhouse, under the tool roof I took a little break and cover from a light rain. I did not quite realize that I already have passed the Big Sur as I imagined, it was gone at this very moment. The scenery in front of my eyes was much less spectacular, high mountains became plains, the thick forests became sparsely groves and the loneliness would be taken over by busy noises of the cities soon.
   Back on the street I discovered in the distance a vulcanic rock right out of the ocean which reminded me to the Morro Rock at Morro Bay only much wider. On it the blinking light of the Point Sur Lightstation could be seen through the mist. The lighthouse is 12 m (40 feet) tall. 

Point Sur State Historic Park and Lighthouse

www.californiabeaches.com

   
   As the sun finally broke through the clouds I cycled over the historically and for the traffic important Bixby Creek Bridge, 13 miles of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This is one of the most photographed bridges in California due to its aesthetic design, “graceful architecture and magnificent location”. The bridge is 714 feet (218 m) in total length, 24 feet (7.3 m) wide, with 260 feet (79 m) of clearance below, and has a main span of 360 feet or 110 m (wikipedia).
   The coast of Big Sur in general is a 'natural' dangerous coast for ships and boats. So, from Aug 01, 1889. this lighthouse made it much safer. Until 1974 keepers and their families lived on the lonely site. After the lighting became automated no one was needed to take care of it. The empty buildings became part of the California Department of Parks and Recreation as the Point Sur State Historic Park.
   When I came to the gate directly beside the Highway 1 it was securely locked. The wind was blowing, there was still a light rain but the light guiding the ships was circling through the morning mist. I continued my way after trying to make a photo in these not favorable conditions.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 31

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest→Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   Returning from the waterfall to the main gate I found my bike still waiting for me, expecting me to continue the ride...

   Back on Highway 1 it got considerable more difficult. The steep road together with the strong headwinds let me get off my bike several time and push it through the spectacular scenery. But like the saying “what goes up must come down” later I experienced a breathtaking downhill ride through redwood forests which also had some conifers, oaks, sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows. The air became much cooler but also very fresh and had a distinguishable scent of needles from trees falling on rich soil.

   Highway 1 led me to the entrance of the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park. Occasionally I passed some house which actually indicated that Big Sur will be over soon. Still on the main road I discovered the Big Sur General Store which is “a Big Sur tradition, offering everything from camping supplies to a great selection of local wines, made-to-order pizzas and burrito bar. We’ll even make summer smoothie with fresh, local fruit.” There I bought my supplies for today’s dinner but also for tomorrow’s breakfast in case I got up so early that the store was still closed. For the location the prices seemed very reasonable to me.

   Leaving Highway 1 on the road to campground I cycled to the Big Sur Lodge which “long has been a haven for writers, artists, seekers of beauty, and weary travelers in search for peace and majesty that the ancient redwoods bestow on body and soul”. The compound includes the hotel and the lodges, but also a restaurant, espresso bar plus a gift shop and a general store.  

   I stopped there and roamed thru the shops open for the public. There have been also different maps and book on the shelf. I opened one book of a female artist from Big Sur with a foreword of the actor, director and producer Clint Eastwood, conveniently the former mayor (1986-1988) of Carmel-by-the-Sea, tomorrow’s stop.

   After I registered myself at the entrance the Pfeiffer Big Sur States Park the ranger instructed me to ride to one of the nicest Hiker & Biker on my whole trip! After passing some RVs and a water station for the campers I built up my tent under one large redwood tree, the fallen needles gave me a soft but firm underground. The scent, as mentioned, is for me one of the most intriguing in the world and made me nearly high.

   After I settled myself I noticed a lonesome elderly man sitting on a table playing cards with himself (!). Out of politeness from camper to camper I walked over, sat down and he began to talk. As a 20 years old he reported for duty to the Vietnam war (Nov. 01, 1955-Apr. 04, 1975) and was part of a tank crew. After he returned from war he worked and lived in a restaurant as a cook. The restaurant was sold to an investor who brought in his home team; he lost his job and had to move out of the place he lived. Since then he is homeless and lives on the streets. As he has no permanent residence the government cannot send him the pensions as a war veteran. At the same time President George W. Bush is planning to cut these pensions for the servicemen. Therefore he supports the candidacy of Hillary Clinton because under her husband Bill Clinton ‘everything was better’.

   His goal was to move to Texas where a comrade-in-arms lives. The soldier turned pastor promised him that the homeless can live with him and give him a permanent address that he can receive his pension. Good luck!

   The whole story sounded very reasonable…But smelly and dirty he had obviously no money for a 25 Cents shower but he drank quality beer and had money for grass which he, as he put it, ‘wanted to dope himself for the night.’ The same spirited comrade joined us, ‘a tramper’ how he introduced himself. The soldier collected fire wood even there are many signs that this is not allowed because of 'fire hazards' but he made a big fire with high flames anyway. To my question ‘is this allowed in a State Park?’ he answered that he "cleans up the wood of the forest and prevent the forest from burning!"

   Finally I looked for a reason to leave both of them. Honestly I have experiences with a drunken and out of control father but no experience with drug users whatsoever. But I know that people can do terrible things when they are high and out of control. For my own and my equipment’s safety I locked my bike very tightly on the tree, my whole luggage I stuffed in my one man tent with one bag serving as a pillow and the other as a pad under my legs and was surprised how good I slept.

   Only once I woke up from the monotone sound of falling raindrops but I did not want to peel myself out of my small tent so I just kept on sleeping.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 30

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest →Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   After my Welsh friends left I finished my morning coffee I continued to cruise along Highway 1.

   The advantage of riding on a bike is that you move at a much slower pace than, for example in a car, and have more time to look around and enjoy the scenery. At a faster pace I would not notice a perfect preserved skeleton of a dog right beside the road. Laying there between fresh flowers it made actually a quite peaceful picture.

   I’ve also met three elderly bikers riding from north to south. It’s nice that many old aged people try to be active; I think a bike is a perfect companion to stay fit and healthy…

   As the weather got warmer I crossed the road and stopped at a nice outlook over the coast of Big Sur. The weather got warmer and I took of my trekking trousers which I wore over my bike shorts because of the very cold morning.

   I continued and arrived at a road construction site, each end secured by a worker with a red flag in his hand and equipped with a radio communicating with each other. As I came closer the worker said into his radio “a lonely bike rider!” Because I was really alone, his words echoed from the face of a rock behind him in a louder voice than talking to the radio. In this ‘weird’ situation both of us had to laugh. The 2nd worker on the other end stopped many cars and it took some uphill time until I passed him. After a greeting he finally let the  waiting cars go.

   After around 15km it came to my mind that I should check on my trousers. I discovered that they were gone... So I had to return and look for them. After a while I came to the 2nd worker who looked at me curiously. While it was my turn downhill I smiled at him and explained “I lost something”. I said the same to the worker on the other side.
   I Indeed found my trousers not far away from the place I took them off and stuffed them securely in my duffel bag. Riding back to the first worker I explained him that I found my pants; the 2nd worker told me while I passed by “you found your pants!”. Probably the 1st worker reported the 2nd over the radio about my fortune. If I packed my trousers properly the 1st time I would not waste 1 ½ hours of my travel time…On the other side I would not met these two kind road construction workers.

   Yesterday evening the Chinese-American biker couple told me about the waterfall at Pfeiffer Burns State Park, according to the husband the most beautiful on the whole trip.

   As I came to the exit I wanted to take the time to have a look by myself. I left Highway 1 and cycled to a wooden house, beside it I locked my bike on an iron gate. I took my camera and followed a small path und a bridge below Highway 1. Finally I came to the 24.4 m high McWay Falls from which falls fresh water from a rock into the ocean. Yesterday’s acquaintance did not exaggerate; it is truly a breathtaking view!  I took my time and just sat on the guardrail and watched the spectacle nature. Due to the relative early morning I nearly had the view for myself...

   The State Park is named after Julia Pfeiffer Burns, a respected resident and rancher in the Big Sur region. She lived in the beginning of the 20th century until her death in 1928 here.

(to be continued)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 29

Tuesday, Sep. 19, 2007

Intimate Big Sur

Los Padres National Forest →Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park

Distance: 84.14 km, Time: 6:04:24 hrs, Total: 938.44 km

   When I woke up in the morning the whole campground was blanketed with a thick waft of mist from the ocean during the night. 
   My tent was not only one the outside but more surprisingly on the inside (!) very wet, the same was the grass on which it stood and surrounding us. To wipe it off with a cloth I carried it completely on the road. While I was busy a pick up stopped right beside of me. In it sat the host of the campground and yelled to me with a boozy breath if I was sleeping on the road. My father was a drunkard therefore I hate them… Watching my eyes he pulled himself back onto his seat and answered his own question “obviously not!” and drove away.
   A female camper watching the whole scene comforted me with the kind words: “Don’t take it to your heart!” I answered with a smile: “I don’t let a drunkard disturb my day, thanks for your concern!”

   In the early morning my friend Tim already left the campground. Some readers might wonder why all my acquaintances just move on without leaving a word; actually I am asking myself the same question. It is a phenomena of this time that people do not much care about others so why should someone change himself or herself during a bike tour? The current US president is a pinnacle on how to separate people, how to play them for your own use, how to let your ego rule your own world...
   I personally try to brake out of this mold which is not that easy. I still see travel and my life in general as a way to meet new people, new environments and new countries and learn from it. I can not be responsible for others but, as Michael Jackson wrote in the song ‘Man in the Mirror‘,

“If you want to make the world a better place, 

take a look at yourself, and then make a change.”

   I was not in a hurry, at around 9:30 am I was riding on Highway 1. The road welcomed me with a strong headwind, together with the rising road it took a real effort to move at an acceptable speed…

   I came to the town of Lucia, a small settlement with restaurants and motels and a gas station directly beside the main road. I stopped there and went in for a breakfast with a good cup of coffee.

   While I enjoyed the breakfast beside the road I noticed some wet flowers covered with morning dew. I thought this was a nice motive and knelt down to take a picture of this natural arrangement. As I was busy with my camera a car stopped beside of me. The driver got off and took the same photo.
   For me this is a good opportunity to make new acquaintances. The driver was a pensioned farmer from Wales. He and his wife, his sister and her husband rented a car and wanted to discover the USA.

   He looked very young therefore I had inevitably to inquire about the retirement system in his home works. He told me that in Wales farmers can retire at the age of 55 (!). Because he owns the house they are living in the pension is enough for him. Compared this to my Taiwanese brother-in-law, a pig farmer, who has to work until 65 and gets only around US$180.00 pension per month. Fair?
   This ex-farmer joined an international housing exchange program in which the members exchange their apartments or houses, his partner is living in his house in Wales while he is living in his home in the US. I think this is a great system which gives everyone the opportunity to learn other countries and people for relatively few money.

   He told me about a Swedish biker laying hurt beside the road. No American driver wanted to stop for help so the biker wrote the emergency number 911 on a white paper. He, the tourist, stopped and called the EMT which sent him to a nearby hospital.

   We had a great conversation and I bid each and everyone of our group farewell...

(to be continued...)

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 28

Tuesday, Sep. 18, 2007

The Silence of Nature

San Simeon State Park → Los Padres National Forest

Distance: 71.33 km, Time: 5:26.02 hrs, Total: 854.30 km

   

   I continued my ride on a breathtaking but not too difficult road and reached Gorda which developed for a former stagecoach station (1878) into a small resort with picturesque white clean houses.

   Gorda is derived from the Spanish word for "fat" or "well-fed", which might be indicating the ‘rich’ background of this very small town. The natural center of the town is the, for Americans, important credit card (without any further service) gas station. As of April 26, 2008, Gorda had the highest gasoline prices in the United States at $6.70 per gallon. Part of this cost goes to subsidize the 100 gallon per day Diesel generator fuel bill for the town. Although as a biker I did not have to 'gas up' I had to take a picture.

Gorda

   In May, 2017, a massive landslide took place just south of Gorda, severing Highway 1; the world famous coastal route for through traffic between northern and southern California was closed. This had a considerable negative economic impact for tourism between Monterey and Morro Bay (wikipedia).

   For the first time I discovered a street sign indicating the distance to San Francisco: 298 km (for tourists!). To some readers this might be a little far way but when you considers the distance I already covered it is only a short ride away…And when every day offers different experiences and impressions the days went by in a short moment's notice. Come on!

   The coast gets wilder and the mountains higher but the road was still not too much to ride. I believe there are too many tourists who want to discover the Big Sur between the centers of Los Angeles and San Francisco so the government would not design roads too demanding. 
   At around 4:00 pm I reached the Federal Campground as part of the Los Padres National Forest and registered at the entrance. Rolling down a hill to the Biker & Hiker I heard someone calling my name 'Gerhard' and, of course, I stopped. It was my American friend from the Carpinteria campground who introduced me to his egg-shaped camp trailer. It was a nice 'accident' to find someone I knew in this wilderness. During our nice conversation a couple from Baden (Germany), joined us. Sometimes we exchanged some German words, I did not use my mother tongue for many years...I still had not put up my tent and was afraid someone was faster than me so I had to leave our small group. 

   Indeed, shortly after my arrival at the Hiker & Bike the place was already busily occupied with more than the mandatory 10 bikers with more still rolling in. As I wanted to move to a bench an American woman shouted angrily that 'the place is occupied'. As an innocent bystander I just put my tent in some high grass which will offer me a cushion for the night.

   I met a group of three bikers travelling with carbon racing bikes and a trailer, as a contrast there was a young couple with old steel bikes who did not even carry a tent but spent the night on an air mattress. My direct neighbors was a couple made of a Malayan overseas Chinese husband and his European wife. The husband told me that both took the same bike trip some 20 years ago and said that nothing changed here on this campground. Even drinking water is still not available. They lend me their youth hostel guide from with I wrote down an address of a hostel in Monterey into my notebook.

   In the meantime there arrived 20 persons at the Hiker & Biker, most of them in groups. The advantage of a group is obviously that you can travel together but I found out that travel with companions let them stick so close together that it is nearly impossible to find friends outside of this group. 

   Not far away I saw a lonesome bike sitting apart from the rest of the bikers. I went to him and we talked. He introduced himself as Tim who travels long distance on his bike, this time from the north to south. I gave him some ideas about European bike travels; there is EuroVelo, the European cycle network (http://www.eurovelo.org). Many different routes have different themes, for example EuroVelo 15 is designed "from the source of the Rhine to its mouth in the North sea". We talked until 10.00 pm, after this time I went sleepy into my tent.
  The waves of the ocean sang a sweet lullaby until I went into a very comfortable dreamland. 

(to be continued) 

Bike Tour in the USA (2007), Part 27

Tuesday, Sep. 18, 2007

The Silence of Nature

San Simeon State Park → Los Padres National Forest

Distance: 71.33 km, Time: 5:26.02 hrs, Total: 854.30 km

We need to find God, and he cannot be found in noise and restlessness. God is the friend of silence. See how nature - trees, flowers, grass- grows in silence; see the stars, the moon and the sun, how they move in silence... We need silence to be able to touch souls.

(Mother Teresa)

   According to my tour guide and the change in scenery I was already in Big Sur, one of the most fascinating natural spectacles in the USA. But I would question if it's one of most spectacular in the world... The sparsely populated and therefore rather untouched region stretches along California's central Pacific coast. In fact, there are no specific area restrictions, but the main part stretches for 143 km between San Simeon in the south and Carmel-by-the-Sea in the north; in the east, the western promontory of Santa Lucia forms the natural boundary. 

   Artistically, there are not a few people who would call Big Sur the "cradle of American landscape painting". The painter Francis McComas (1875-1938) aptly called this area the "greatest gathering of land and sea in the world"! Everyone interested in photography and photographers associates Big Sur with famous American landscape photographers such as Ansel Adams (1902-1984) or Edward Weston (1886-1958), who made his last photo after the onset of Parkinson's disease in 1948.

   As I cycled in thoughts I suddenly noticed something silver shimmering lying beside the road. After further inspection I looked onto a motionless snake wide with open eyes staring at me! It did not look that it was overrun by a car so I assume the snake could not move due to the cold morning. I think 'torpor', a 'state of decreased physiological activity in an animal, usually by a reduced body temperature and metabolic rate' is the right biological word.

Snake unable to cross the Road

  Here is the road is quite flat and therefore easy to cycle. I really enjoyed the view of the ocean to my right and the rough and untouched landscape of Big Sur on the left. In this silence I suddenly believed that I’ve heard the sounds of howling seals. I parked my bike on the side of the road, took a few steps over a small patch of grass, and actually saw a group of Elephant seals right below of me in the sand. Elephant seals, Mirounga angustirostris, are true seals, or earless seals, members of the pinniped suborder.

   In order to warm the bellies of the morning sun, they lay mostly motionless on the sides or on their backs; only now and then they moved lazily their front fins to throw some sand on their bodies. Seeing these fat animals with their happy faces was plainly funny and put a smile on my face. Alone I sat there and took a few long minutes to watch them...

Elephant Seals on a lazy Morning

  Later I rode to a rather large and hectic parking lot; on the side towards the ocean the park authorities built a wooden veranda, the official observation platform. Families tried to catch a glimpse of the seals with their telescopes or tried to take pictures with telephoto lenses. Sometimes freedom on a bike is an advantage; in this case you can discover these interesting animals before others and enjoy them alone and undisturbed-only the seals, you and your senses...

(to be continued)